October 1965: Picot Trims

EDIT November 12, 2023: Finished!

This month’s project was the simple, yet elegant “Cardigan with Picot Trims” from the October 1965 issue. It is made in stocking-stitch with 3/4 length raglan sleeves and hems at the lower edge, front bands, cuffs and neck. The fronts are then trimmed with simple crochet picot edging and the back is left plain.

It was the perfect project for the Rohrspatz & Wollmeise “Lacegarn” wool (100% merino wool, superwash, hand-dyed) that I had bought at the Sulinger Wollfest this past summer. The pattern calls for Patons Beehive 4-ply, so a little thicker than my laceweight, but that meant that for once, I could use the intended needle size and get the intended tension (7 sts and 9 rows/inch on No. 10 (3.2g mm) needles — I used 3 mm and it worked perfectly.) The yarn is glorious, with its deep, glowing green colour, which is deepened by the slight marling that results from the hand-dying process. This hank (300 g) was even discounted due to possible knots, breakages or dying errors, but there were none of any of those that I could find.

I had resolved to never again make a garment with a stocking-stitch hem in lightweight wool, since in my experience it stretches out horizontally and the whole garment shrinks vertically, turning even a slim long-line into a boxy tent. In an attempt to counteract it, and to avoid the ballooning back and general dumpiness of 1960s unshaped style, I added some waist shaping, decreasing every 6 rows to just below my natural waist, knitting 2 inches plain and then increasing up to the required number of stitches. I decided to make the decreases not at the sides, where one would expect, but 12 stitches in from each front edge (where the picot trim is sewn on later) as well as 12 stitches in from each back side edge and 12 stitches in from the middle back symmetrically. Yes, this meant I decreased twice as many stitches on the back as on the fronts. And it worked! The back fits well without being too tight or ballooning out over the waist and the front has an elegant curve. Plus, the picot trims will cover up the decrease/increase line on the fronts.

In that vein, I increased up to the correct amount of stitches for the second size on the fronts, but kept the back at a stitch count between the first and second sizes, to allow the front to be wider than the back even before allowing for the extra inch or so of the front bands. The sleeves (which I actually knit first) were a bit tight, so I went ahead and increased up to the third size. I also made them longer. The 14 inches specified in the pattern for 3/4 length is closer to elbow length on me, and didn’t look quite right. I increased to 16 inches, which gives a nice “bracelet” length.

I made the raglan decreases as intended — sleeves decreasing every 4th row at first, then every other row, and always every other row for the fronts and back. Of course, the counts didn’t match exactly, since the stitch counts were from different sizes. Also, I wanted the neckline to sit a little lower and I was concerned that the yoke might be too long — I didn’t check row tension, but it seems to be not 9 rows/inch. I ended up making the initial neckline decrease about an inch below where it would have been in the pattern, ending where it fit the best and just making some extra decreases on the last row to pull the back neck in a bit for the neckband.

The front bands are made separately and sewn on. I guess I could have knitted them with the fronts and back, which I made in one piece anyway, but I didn’t think of it in time. And anyway, making them separately meant I could make them on smaller needles. For once, I got the spacing of the buttonholes right! Stitchcraft always tells you to make the button band first, sew it on as you go, then mark the places for the buttons with büpins and make the buttonholes on the other band to correspond. It does not always work as well as you think it should.

After the button bands and the neck band were finished, and the underarm seams grafted (terribly. So terribly. I can not seem to master the Kitchener stitch no matter how it is taught), it was time for the picot trims. I thought it might be possible, and easier, to crochet them directly onto the fabric instead of making them separately and sewing them on, as the pattern indicates. I tried it on a swatch, crocheting into the horizontal bar between stitches and working into 2 of every 3 rows. That gave a good length, but also made the trim stand up straight instead of lying flat to the side as it should have. So I crocheted the trims separately and sewed them on, handily covering up the line of decreases and increases from the waist shaping in the process.

That left the buttons! Which were, strangely, the most difficult part. I wanted round, flat buttons with a back hook (not holes), as in the photo. So very 60s and in my opinion, they really make the outfit. But neither the colour of the wool (a deep, slightly blue pine green, none of the photos here really do it justice) nor the style of button seem to be in fashion. I looked at different stores, online button shops, vintage buttons on ebay… Nothing close. Luckily, my local wool/sewing shop can cover buttons with fabric if you have the right fabric. What do you know, this colour is not in fashion for fabric either! I finally found some gorgeous green stretch velvet and used the wrong side (not the velvet side) for the fabric buttons. Perfect.

In fact, everything about this project was perfect. The fit is perfect and the waist shaping worked perfectly. The sleeves blocked out to exactly long-sleeve length. The wool is wonderful, the colour is wonderful, and the finished blouse looks exactly like the photo except for the colour choice. I even managed to twist my back into almost as hard an S-curve as the model in the photo… (Rotating the finished photo helped too.)

May all your projects work out so well!

October 1965: Overview

Colour and Tweed for Autumn! This is a “bumper” issue full of many beautiful designs for adults, children, homewares and “novelties”, all with an autumn theme. My apologies for the slightly late post — I was traveling last week with no computer.

The cover photo is a “Chanel Style Suit” in Bracken Double Knitting tweed wool. 1965 was the heyday of Coco Chanel’s pioneer boxy, tweedy suit that was all the rage with celebrities and modern women. Her designs combined Scottish tweeds and multi-colour fabric patterns by Bernat Klein with her signature comfort, ease of movement and simple elegance to make a modern, essential wardrobe staple. Here is an excellent short introductory film about it (I’m sure readers of this blog will need no introduction; still, it’s great.) The knitted suit design in this issue of Stitchcraft is very true to the Chanel model, with its thick, tweedy wool, above-knee skirt and functional, square pockets in the jacket. There’s a short-sleeved knitted blouse in turquoise to match.

Other women’s garment designs include a brilliant red dress in Paton’s newest wool, Fiona; a “continental” pullover in a broken-cable design in regular Patons DK wool, a plain pullover with “new styling”, also in Fiona; and a fine-knit cardigan with crochet picot trim.

“Fiona” wool was a mix of Shetland wool and synthetic “Orlon”, made to combine the best qualities of both — warm, and lightweight like the wool, but easy-care and less scratchy. The “new styling” of the plain pullover means it is longer (23-24 inches) and looser-fitting than previous classic designs, and the raglan armholes are deeper, for an all-around casual fit. Colours are bright and snappy with yellows (“Maize”, “Celtic Gold” and “Inca Gold”) complementing the bright red of the dress. There’s a slipover for men as well, in bright “Peacock” shade and made in slightly thicker “Flair” — also a wool-synthetic mix. Cables of all sorts are popular, and the longer length can be seen in the Fiona advertisement as well as the garment photos.

The accessories are limited to one hat — but what a hat! The “tucked” pattern is made by inserting a “life-line” type extra thread every 5 rows and then knitting those stitches together with the current row. I love it, though the model has an unfortunately ridiculous expression on her face in the photo. No designs for babies this issue, but two wonderful and colourful sweaters for children with stranded hem and yoke accents.

In the embroidery and homewares department, we have the usual designs for cushions, chair-backs and chair-seats, plus a granny-square crochet pattern to use up scrap wool that, backed with woven fabric, can be used to make a workbag or cushion. Like the garment designs, colours are bright and bold, with reds and blues prevailing, along with black and white.

More advanced needleworkers can make a very pretty firescreen or a blackwork wall panel. Finally, there are embroidered cushions with flower designs — cornflower, corn not-flower-but-actual-corn, and red poppies. The loose, almost flowing style of the cushion designs looks ahead to later and even simpler patterns — complicated Jacobean work was on its way out. There’s a practical stitched rug in a geometric design as well.

The bizarre-bazaar “novelties” never fail to amuse and wonder, and this month’s issue gives us a knitted tea cosy (festooned with pom-poms) that looks like a giant orange and/or lemon, and a crazy-eyed “Pete Puppy” doll in sewn and embroidered felt fabric that can be used for storing sewing implements — just poke those spare pins right into his belly like a voodoo doll. The “Readers Pages” offer some reprints of popular designs from earlier issues: a doll’s clothing set from November 1940 and a crocheted pram cover from … when was it exactly? It doesn’t say in the instructions and couldn’t find it in my previous posts, but I know I have seen it in another issue — possibly pre-1960.

In the current comic (really, one of the best ones), homemade rabbit doll Homer (because he’s home-made, get it?) and his friend, the store-bought rabbit doll Sale Price (self-explanatory) go on a quest in search of a real, live rabbit. Here’s they find a rabbit on a merry-go-round, who explains to them (logically enough) that he cannot be a real rabbit, as he can take children for rides, which a real rabbit cannot. Pedagogical message for children: do not try to ride on a real rabbit! Alas, Homer and Sale price must look further, and will continue their adventures in next month’s issue.

I will leave you with this ad for the Scotch Wool Shop, purveyors of knitting wool, stockings, underwear, and fashionable clothing for women. Always keeping up with the times, the ad shows a crocheted dress in Mary Quant style, named “Troy” and perfectly photographed for the Swinging Sixties.

That’s all for now! I have so, so many unfinished projects, but cannot resist the temptation to make the fine-knit cardigan blouse with picot crochet trim. It will definitely not be finished on time, but as always, I will update project posts when progress has been made.

September 1965: Comfortable Cushion

EDIT 2 October 7, 2023: Finished!

This month‘s project was another modern adaptation of a 1960s homeware object. In this case, the original design was for a knitted „comfortable cushion” in a use-up-your-scraps striped slip-stitch pattern. I had plenty of scraps to use up and a request to make a little wrist cushion for someone who works a lot on the computer and had been padding their wrists with a folded scarf. The yarns I used were some more of the lovely Slow Wool Lino from Lana Grossa with bits of leftover sock wool for the contrast colours.

The original cushion measures 15×12 inches using a cast-on of 83 stitches of DK wool. I wanted a 14×4 inch cushion in fingering weight and calculated that out at 79 stitches in width. The stripes are made in slip 1, knit 3 pattern in alternating colours.

Everything worked out out fine on the first cushion piece. The width was perfect and three rows of stripes with 6 plain rows at beginning and end were a good height. The pattern was so very, very 1960s! Especially in the brown and brown and grayish brown and blue colour scheme (by request from the intended recipient.)

It was, in fact, a bit too authentically 1960s for the recipient, who requested a different pattern to use on the other side of the cushion. How about Space Invaders monsters? (i.e. hipster 80s retro instead of grandpa‘s 60s retro.) Space Invaders it was! I adjusted the number of blank rows on the Space Invaders piece, since the slip-stitch pattern pulls the knitting together even more than stranded work.

Then I made two more smaller squares in the same design, to make a pad for when the recipient might want to hold their wrists farther apart. All of the pieces curl a lot, as you would expect from stranded and/or slip-stitch patterns worked flat, but when I uncurled them, they seemed to be just the right size.

I wash-blocked the pieces, which flattened out both patterns admirably, and realised that I had made the Space Invaders piece too narrow. Not wanting to knit it again, I made two little strips to sew onto the sides — not elegant, but it fit.

I sewed up three sides and tacked 2 layers of quilt wadding to each of the insides, then turned around and sewed up the fourth side.

It’s… OK, I guess? The slip-stitch side definitely looks like a brown-on-brown 1960s home-made pillow, so you could call it authentic. But it’s not really one of my more interesting or beautiful projects. It should be useful, at least.

September 1965: Overview

Autumn is here, and the September 1965 issue of Stitchcraft is, as promised by its editress, a “bumper” issue with more colour photos (to offset the price increase to 2s. per single issue) and a new yarn from Stitchcraft’s patron wool company, Patons.

Called “Fiona”, it was DK-weight and made of 50% Shetland wool and 50% “Orlon” (one of the very first acrylic yarns). Shetland wool is beautifully warm and lightweight due to its being very lofty and “hairy”, and “Fiona” was marketed as combining these positive aspects with the easy-care, less scratchy and non-tangling qualities of synthetic yarn — a sort of “Shetland lite”, if you will. Real Shetland wool is excellent for traditional “Fair Isle” stranded colourwork patterns, since the hairs lock into each other in the stranding, but the “Fiona” designs in this issue employ smoother, textured stitch patterns. The cover cardigan-jacket has a bobbly lace pattern and the his-and-hers pullovers use a broken cable rib.

The other two designs for adults are made in standard 100% wools: a “young-looking sweater” with really, really unfortunately placed bobbles (directly along the bustline) in Patons Double Knitting or Crepe, and an Aran-patterned jacket in bulkier “Capstan”. An older brother might get this “Husky polo style” pullover in Patons DK and a fun reversed stocking-stitch pattern with more (and better placed) bobbles.

The trend for textured stitch patterns continues with garments for the younger set. The toddlers’ “walking-out set” of pullover, leggings and snug helmet-style cap (with more bobbles on the tie at the neck) is made in easy 2×2 ribbing in blue and white DK wool. Love the pre-Photoshop-era addition of a tree in the photo, to show you that he’s playing outside! His big brother gets a warm slipover in an easy zig-zag pattern, and tomboy sister, (with short hair and trousers) gets a set of cap and sweater in a fisherman’s rib pattern that is more complicated to do than it looks. You purl the RS rows and and on the WS rows, you *k1, purl into next st. but through loop of row below at the same time slipping st. above off left needle; rep from * to last st, k1. The vertical stripes are added later via Swiss darning aka duplicate stitch embroidery.

Above all, this is a bumper issue for homewares. There are multiple pages of easy projects for a “Sale of Work” stall at the church bazaar or what have you, including a “house” and “windmill”-themed apron, mat/cosy set and a “peg bag” for holding laundry pegs. Other quick novelties include a knitted scottie-dog toy and a cosy or cushion made out of odds and ends of wool.

More ambitious needle-workers can decorate an entire room from top to bottom with designs from this issue, starting with a needle-etched picture of a steam engine — a throwback to the Victorian nostalgia of the late 1950s and early 1960s — or a tapestry picture of the seaside village of Clovelly to hang on the wall.

For the furniture, there’s a beautiful “peasant” (their word, not mine) design for a cushion and chairback, made in embroidery wool on linen, and for the floor, a hand-made “Tartan” rug. It uses a latch-hook and the “Turkey knot” to make a soft, three-dimensional pile. Finally, church-goers can make a tapestry “kneeler” cushion in a pattern inspired by Gothic stonework.

And there’s a new children’s comic serial in the Readers Pages! This is a really cute and creative story about Homer the plush rabbit (so called because he was home-made) and Sale Price, the store-bought plush rabbit, who go out into the big wide world to try and find a real rabbit to befriend. Will they find one? Stay tuned! Oh, and I bought this issue on Ebay, so received a special… bonus? picture of an embroidered Christmas tree with no transfer or pattern instructions (and not from Stitchcraft.). If anyone can identify it, I will be very impressed!

My project from this issue will be the knitted cushion, by special request from someone who works on the computer a lot and would like a soft underlay to rest their wrists on.

Blast from the Past: Patons No. 179

EDIT January 20th, 2024: Finished!

Since there wasn’t anything I really wanted to make from the August 1965 issue, this month’s project is taking us back to 1946. It’s technically not a Stitchcraft pattern (though Stitchcraft magazine was around then), but it is a pattern from Stitchcraft‘s patron wool company, Patons, so close enough for this blog, and conveniently fit into a lace-themed KAL on the All Things Vintage Ravelry forum. The pattern is for a short-sleeved jumper and I’m working to make it into a twin set.

I bought the pattern from the wonderful BlackwaterVintageNtz shop on Etsy and the wool (Yundi & Grete Felice Fingering Puro) from last year’s wool festival in Sulingen (Germany). The wool is a mix of 75% merino and 25% silk, which gives it a lovely softness and shine. I bought 500 grams of green and 200 grams of pink with no set plans for what to do with it, and as often happens, it lay around for a while before it found the right project.

The pattern is from 1946 and, as with many patterns from that decade, information about sizing, ease, tension etc. are minimal. It’s written in one size, for 32 inch bust, with (calculating from the tension given in the pattern) 2 inches of positive ease in the bust — odd for a 1940s pattern, actually, which usually have a quite a bit of negative ease, as do lace patterns, since they stretch so easily. The vintage knitting expert and owner of the BlackwaterVintageNtz Etsy shop Gunwaru on Ravelry had conveniently knitted the jumper herself and wrote in the notes that — made to gauge as specified — her version easily fit a 38 inch-bust dress form. I wasn’t sure if my wool would stretch as much and wanted to reproduce the easy looseness of the pattern photo, so I made a swatch on 3.5 mm needles (pattern calls for 3.75) and added one pattern repeat to each of back and front. This should have given me a 37 inch finished bust, which is a bit of negative ease, but shouldn’t look too tight. I made it one pattern repeat longer as well, as I do for all pre-1960s patterns (I am taller than an “average”-sized woman of the 1940s or 50s and long-waisted).

Well, that all goes to show that swatching and calculating work most of the time. Though my lace swatch hardly stretched in blocking, the finished jumper was generous after knitting and then blocked huge — I could have just made the normal size. Or even smaller! My swatch had no relation to the knitting on the finished garment. Even the sleeves, which were fine before blocking, stretched in both length and width. I had made them shorter since I don’t like just-above-elbow length… if I had made them according to pattern, they would have practically been long.

I couldn’t block it down small enough and in the end, I put it in the dryer to shrink (delicate cycle and not hot, I am not a complete monster.) Strangely, it worked and didn’t ruin the fabric! It is now a reasonable size and fits me. I don’t recommend drying non-superwash merino and silk in a clothes dryer as it is generally really risky (don’t try this at home! I am not responsible for damages!), but in this case, it worked. The yarn did lose a little bit of its sheen and silkiness, but I am willing to sacrifice that if I can get a wearable garment.

As always, we had fun re-creating the pattern photos.

On to the cardigan. There is no pattern for it, so I adapted ideas from the jumper. Sizing was a dilemma, since the jumper was so huge before the dryer manoeuvre, but of course you can’t make the cardigan smaller than the jumper. I decided to make it exactly the same size (plus front bands) and hoped for the best. As for the colour scheme, I wasn’t sure if I would have enough pink yarn left to make both sleeves and yoke, but also not sure if I would have enough green yarn to just make the whole thing in green. This led to a piecemeal approach, since (for example) it would look fine to have just the upper yoke in pink, but not one shoulder of one sleeve. I made at least the start of the front bands together with the fronts for this reason as well. I didn’t want to deal with too many increases in the lace pattern on the sleeves, so I made 4 pattern repeats on a base of stocking-stitch (similar to the way the increases and armhole decreases were made on the jumper.)

It went well in pieces, though I was nervous about the sizing and whether I would have to shrink the cardigan in the dryer as well, or if I could get it down to a size just slightly larger than the jumper. I made the back and fronts (with bands) and finished to the yoke where the colour change would come in the pattern, then finished one sleeve which was quite snug. I blocked the sleeve and it was a fine size after blocking, so made the other one to match.

Crossing fingers that it would all work out, I finished the front and back yokes in stocking-stitch in all green (leaving about 10-15 grams of green yarn over, so that was fine) and sewed it together. It was hard to tell whether it was a good size or not, since the lace pattern scrunches up a lot while knitting and I knew that blocking would stretch it out a lot. I didn’t want to complete the button bands on the scrunchy lace, so I blocked the almost-finished cardigan first.

Unfortunately, though the width was OK, and the sleeves were OK if a little narrow at the wrists, the length was unacceptably long. I had made it one pattern repeat longer than the jumper (ca. 3/4 inch) to allow for wearing it over the jumper. But whereas the finished jumper was about 20 inches long (i.e. a little short for me, but appropriate for 1940s style), the cardigan was now 25 inches. The yarn was that unpredictable.

What to do? It ballooned out terribly, of course. It also still didn’t have button bands. I had originally planned vertically-knit bands, started them along with the waist ribbing and left the band stitches on safety pins to continue knitting after the rest was finished. Now I changed tactics, cast off the truncated bands and folded them inward, and picked up stitches for horizontal bands. I calculated the number of stitches to pick up based on the length the cardigan should have been, with the idea that the bands would pull the length together and I could then re-block the cardigan and try to get it smaller.

That actually helped quite a lot — now it was a matter of the back part ballooning still, and of course nothing lying flat in the front. I probably picked up too few stitches along the back neck and upper part of the “V” neck. But I tried blocking it again… Still too long, and not behaving. Well, a short run in the dryer worked for the jumper and didn’t hurt it, right?

Alas, a short run in the dryer (here too, gentle cycle, cool air) was not a good idea this time. After only 10-15 minutes, the cardigan had shrunk massively and already begun to felt. I tried to save it by re-wetting and wearing (while wet, ugh), then pinning it out flat. That got it to a barely acceptable length, but the damage had been done. The sleeves were too tight and too narrow and the fabric had lost its beauty and “bounce”.

I finished it up with buttons and tried to make the best of it, but it’s not good. The cardigan is actually smaller than the jumper and doesn’t stretch any more. The shoulders and upper sleeves are particularly problematic where the jumper fabric bunches up under the cardigan and brings the shoulders out of line. Combined with the puffy 1940s sleeve tops and the too-short sleeves, it makes me look hugely bulky in the upper body. I feel like a gorilla wearing it.

I’m very sad and disappointed, in myself of course for risking the dryer a second time which was obviously a bad decision, but also with this yarn, which I so loved in the skein, but which turned out to be impossible to work with. Swatches, a jumper and a cardigan all knitted from the same pattern on the same needles turned out so wildly different both from each other and before and after blocking. How is anyone supposed to make a wearable garment without being able to calculate how big the finished fabric will be?

Not sure what to do with the cardigan. Maybe I will give it to someone smaller than me who is less picky about fabric perfection. I’ll keep the jumper, of course.

That’s all for this project… May it be a lesson to me!

August 1965: Overview

It’s “late summer” over at Stitchcraft magazine, and this month’s designs are still summery-looking, but warmer, with an eye towards the coming autumn and cooler weather. Also, production costs were apparently increasing, so readers were informed that as of September 1965, the price for individual issues would be raised to 2s. 0d. The increase to the current subscription rate of £1 8 s 0d for one year or 14s for six months, post-free to any part of the world (!) was scheduled to be explained in the September issue, with existing subscriptions running out at the old price.

How much was that in today’s currency? I cannot vouch for the accuracy or lack thereof from either of these sources, but the currency converter website of the National Archives tells me that a year’s subscription at the old price would be the equivalent of £24.67 in 2017 (the latest year the website calculates to), so quite inexpensive for 12 issues. A six-month subscription would cost £12.33, so pretty much exactly half (if you round up a penny, since a six-month subscription certainly wouldn’t have cost less than half of the yearly price.) A single issue at the new price would cost £1.76. According to this inflation calculator (again, take all of this with a grain of salt as such converters are always approximate), in 2023 prices that would come out to £2.21 for a single issue at the new price and £31.01 for a year’s subscription at the old price — again, quite reasonable, if the converters are at all accurate. Stitchcraft was published by Condé Nast as an independent publication, but of course was a co-product of Patons / Patons and Baldwins / at this point the company had been merged with J&P. Coats / yarn company, so served as an advertisement for their wools. As was common for knitting magazines at the time as well as today.

But I digress! The cover photo shows Aran sweaters in the partner-look for him and her, made in slightly-heavier-than-DK “Flair”, a wool-synthetic mix. Other fashions for women strike a balance between “cool to look at… warmer to wear” and include a two-piece DK dress with a short-sleeved top or a DK sweater in “ice-cream” colours of bubblegum pink and white. For the coming autumn days days, there’s a DK cardigan made warmer and heavier by the use of trellis-stitch panels on the front and back, or for a lighter touch, there’s a 4-ply jumper with diagonal stripes, knit diagonally — basically two rectangles for front and back, then picking up stitches for the vertically-knit yoke, and separate sleeves. The colour scheme is definitely still summery, with the striped jumper in navy blue and white and the trellis cardigan in light “Beau Blue”.

For men, in addition to the Aran-pattern sweater on the front cover, there’s a nice 4-ply slipover, made warmer by the use of a sort of broken garter stitch pattern: every 4th stitch is knit through the back on the RS rows and purled on the WS rows to create a pseudo-ribbing effect.

This month, we once again have children’s fashions for all ages. There’s a dolman cardigan for girls up to a 29 inch chest and a cute unisex “play shirt” up to 28 inch chest, all in sunny colours of gold, white, “Gay Turquoise” and “Sunglint”. Baby’s turquoise “extra jacket” is worked in one piece up to the armholes in a stitch pattern that looks a bit like the one for the man’s slipover, but is more complicated:

1st row: WS facing, knit.
2nd row: *k3, k3 tog and leave on needle, then k. 1st st again, then k tog the other 2 sts and slip off needle, k 3*, rpt to last 3 sts, k3 tog and leave on needle, k 1st st again, then k tog the other 2 sts and slip off needle
3rd row: purl
4th row: knit
5th row: knit
6th row: *k3 tog and leave on needle, then k. 1st st again, then k tog the other 2 sts and slip off needle, k 3*, rpt to last 3 sts, k3 tog and leave on needle, k 1st st again, then k tog the other 2 sts and slip off needle
7th row: purl
8th row: knit

I’ve never seen this stitch before — does anyone know it, or know if it has a name?

In the homewares department, we have the usual selection of versatile designs for different items and uses. The cross-stitch ivy border, for example, is suggested for “cushions, table mats and chair-backs, or as a border for curtains” , the wavy “design from Greece” is featured on a chair-back, cushion and rug, and the Swedish-inspired design “for bold counted embroidery” works on table mats as well as cushions. Even the tapestry hydrangeas can be used as a wall picture or fire-screen.

It wouldn’t be a proper issue of Stitchcraft without bizarre-bazaar ideas, though these are not nearly as weird as some of the items that we’ve seen in the past. The theme is clearly “kitchen” this time, with embroidered or appliquéd aprons and pot holders. Sometimes the chef looks happy with the food, and sometimes he definitely has l’air déçu!

The back pages feature a “special request” tatted doily edging, a great “leg lively” ad for nylon stockings from the Scotch Wool Shop. In the final chapter of the current children’s serial comic, “The Lost Stitch”, Jill and her brother James fall back through the magic portal that appeared in a dropped stitch, to find themselves back at home with the stitch magically mended. May all your dropped stitches heal this way!

There isn’t a specific design that I like enough to make from this issue, so my August project will be another non-Stitchcraft “Blast From the Past.” Happy late summer and if it’s still too hot where you live, enjoy that ad for Lightning zips that promises to keep you cool as a cucumber in your summer cottons.

July 1965: Overview

July is still “holiday” season over at Stitchcraft, but this summery issue is already looking towards cooler autumn temperatures and the return to post-holiday life. For women’s fashions, this means a “revival of the more feminine line” (as if there were ever a fashion for “the masculine line” in 1960s women’s fashions.) I guess they mean a slightly closer-fitting silhouette, or a little more shaping of upper-body garments between hem and bust. At the same time, “quick and easy yarns” or “easy-to-wear loose front styling” jackets are still in fashion, emphasising comfort and wearability.

Our cover model sports a white blouse made in 4-ply “Cameo Crepe” wool and twisted stocking-stitch for a little more texture. The navy blue accents on shoulder and pocket match the knitted skirt, which is just below-knee length. That may seem surprising if you associate mid-1960s fashions with miniskirts, but it took a while for the ideas of cutting-edge designers like Mary Quant or André Courrèges to trickle down to the general public, and hand-knitting magazines, even the more fashionable / aspirational ones, were oriented towards designs that “regular people” could wear in everyday life . The dresses and skirts in Vogue Knitting’s 1965 Spring/Summer issue, for example, all fall between just-barely-above and solidly-below knee-length — and Stitchcraft was a more conservative magazine than Vogue Knitting. We won’t be seeing miniskirts here for a while yet.

The upper-body fashions for women show, if not an extreme “revival of the feminine line”, a definite attention to cute colour and pattern details, particularly in the use of twisted stitches or ribbing variants. The pink raglan pullover on the inside front cover combines a sort of twisted rib on the sides with a “v” pattern, also made by twisting stitches, up the front and back midline and on the sleeves, and tops ot off with a black necktie bow. Nice touch to put it on a red-haired model! The combination of colour detail and ribbing variant (here: stranded panel and narrow slip-stitch rib) is also used on the warm blue-and-white cardigan. The “knitting that looks like crochet” trend continues in a short-sleeved blouse for larger sizes in 4-ply wool and a textured-lace pattern.

The men’s fashions use a predictably less dainty, but no less interesting use of colour and pattern: there’s a loose.fitting, sideways-knit and vertically-striped dolman-sleeve shirt for beach wear in “father and son” sizes for adults and children (though the “adult” model in the photo looks hardly older than a teenager himself) and a slipover in an Aran-style pattern of cables, ridges and zig-zags.

The kids’ designs utilise the same fashion features as the adults: the boys’ striped shirt is the exact same pattern as “Father’s”, and there’s a zip-neck pullover for girls with a stranded border reminiscent of the panel in the womens’ jacket. For younger girls, there’s a quick and easy, slightly striped pullover whose pattern details are embroidered on after knitting. Nautical white and blue, pretty pink and sunny yellow make up the summer colour palette.

There’s a good selection of easy homeware and embroidery projects: appliquéd garden cushions in “hardwearing hessian” fabric, single flowers cross-stitched on place mats “for an outdoor supper party”, embroidered “needle etchtings” of village scenes (Godshill and Shanklin Old Village on the Isle of Wight), or an easy stitched rug.

The Danish-design tapestry cushions look more complicated than they are, but are also more complicated than the usual tapestry cushions. Fans of finer work in cotton can make doilies or a traycloth, or pretty trims for bed pillows.

The ads are quite usual: Singer sewing machines, Patons yarns, and a swirly nightgown and negligée from the Scotch Wool Shop. Not to forget: the Turmix knitting machine, Stitchcraft binding cases to store a year’s worth of magazines, and order houses for wools, fabric remnants, etc. The children’s comic follows the adventures of Jill and James searching for a lost stitch and encountering interesting characters such as Spinning Jenny, who shows them how a spinning machine works.

That’s all for this issue! My project will be the appliquéd flower cushion.

June 1965: Fuzzy-Wuzzy & 3-ply Cardigan

My project from Stitchcraft’s June 1965 issue was inspired by this design for a striped orange cardigan made with “Fuzzy-Wuzzy” (3-ply angora/wool blend) yarn.

I say “inspired by” because I saw the project as a way to use up the different shades of orange wool I used in my “Shaded Blouse” project from last month, as well as the leftover pink from my “Clarel” and even a little bit of leftover orange from this lovely 1961 sleeveless top I made a few years ago. I figured I could just make narrow stripes until the first colour ran out and then see how to best finish the cardigan.

In order to do that effectively, I changed the construction from the standard bottom-up-in-flat-pieces in the pattern to a V-neck made in one piece from the top down, vertical ribbing included. That meant starting with the ribbing for the back neck, then picking up stitches across the long edge and the two short edges to make the curve, then keeping the ribbing in the dark orange colour from then on, using the same needles and two balls of wool for the two sides. It was a little tricky at first, but it was worth it to not have to play “yarn chicken” with the amount of orange needed for the ribbing at the end.

The “Fuzzy-Wuzzy” wool in the pattern is 3-ply and supposed to be knitted at 8 stitches to the inch. My wools were modern fingering/4-ply and I got a nice, even 7 stitches to the inch on 3 mm needles, so I adjusted the stitch counts, increasing up to the smallest size instead of my normal second. I remembered that this wool tended to shrink in blocking, so I wasn’t worried when it seemed generously sized — but maybe I should have been! The cardigan turned out wider than it needed to be, and if I had been able to use less yarn, I could have made the cardigan longer.

I ran out of the light peach yarn first and hardly had any dark orange left at that point, so had to buy another ball of the dark orange to finish off the ribbing (so much for the idea of using up scraps…). I expected to not want to wear or keep the finished garment, since the “cropped and boxy” look is not a great one on me. (It is, however, currently in fashion, so I figured I could sell the cardigan.) Strangely, though, I love it! It looks playful and fun and does not me look nearly as squared-off-and-put-in-a-box as I thought it would. The wool-silk-linen blend yarns and cap sleeves make it a perfect-temperature top for slightly cooler summer days.

I still have a bit of most of the yarns left over. Hat? “Shaded” mitts? Little cowl or scarf? I don’t know. I’ll edit this post if I make something matching!

June 1965: Overview

“Knit for High Summer”! The June 1965 issue of Stitchcraft “covers practically everything the family needs in the way of holiday knits”, i.e. sporty separates, cardigans to be worn as outerwear, and lots of warm, bulky sweaters for that unpredictable British summer weather. Our cover model sports a loose, unshaped, fine-knit blouse in 4-ply “Nylox” yarn, a combination of wool and nylon not unlike many sock yarns popular today. The matching skirt is below-knee length — it will take a little while for the miniskirt to reach high fashion and longer for it to be popular in a more conservative magazine like Stitchcraft.

The “crochet look” is already quite popular at this time, though. Prior to the 1960s, crochet was more often used to make doilies and fancy lace borders in fine thread, or quick and bulky items like hot pads, teapot cosies and mittens. The mid-1960s saw a transition to blouses, suits and other garments, and this issue features a lightweight blouse in an easy shell patter, worn by a model who looks uncannily like the young Barbra Streisand. Those who prefer knitted summer tops can make a little cap-sleeve blouse in fine bouclet wool, unfashionably short in this year of long, unshaped tops. The fine-knit items are rounded out by a striped cardigan in a mixture of plain wool and fluffy “Fuzzy-Wuzzy” angora blend yarn.

It wouldn’t be a proper summer without some cold wind and rain, so be prepared in your warm “bubbly stitch” cardigan made in bulky, but (comparatively) lightweight “Ariel” wool. The photo is so very 1960s! Diagonal camera angle, tilted head, high-contrast lighting for dramatic shadows, unsmiling but alluring facial expression — it’s all there. There are similar, but not quite matching, his-and-hers DK pullovers in ultramarine blue and white. The colour detailing is embroidered on at the end in cross-stitch. The man of the family can also get a bright blue waistcoat in a mock-cable and welt pattern. You know the model is on holiday, since he’s wearing his casual button-up shirt and tie.

“Youngsters” can stay warm (on their upper bodies at least) as well, in a Norwegian-style round-yoke pullover with a simple stranded pattern at hem and yoke or a “tough Lumber-style” zippered cardigan “for hard play”. You can tell the little boy in the picture is playing hard, since he’s wearing his playtime button-up shirt and tie! The girl model gets to wear shorts for once, instead of a tiny miniskirt that barely covers anything.

There are plenty of easy projects to take along on your holiday, or to prepare for it, or even serve as a memento of it — like the embroidered place mats with maps of France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, or Switzerland and their associated stereotypical motifs. Those who prefer to plan ahead can sew a simple folding bag lined with towelling for a bathing kit, or a cross-stitch hold-all for beach take-along items, as well as a little sundress-smock for a toddler.

A tablecloth is probably too big to pack in the beach bag, but the easy cross-stitch pattern is given for a cushion or chair-back as well. Little embroidered animal pictures in cross-stitch “for the nursery” are also quick and easy to pack along on holiday.

The highlights of the homeware designs in this issue are definitely meant to be made at home, particularly the embroidered “Chinese Garden” wall panel. I cannot vouch for any kind of cultural or historical authenticity in the design, but it is very pretty and delicate in shades of blue, green, lilac and orange. I’m glad they included a colour photo.

Last but not least, I leave you with this amazing “Practical Set for your bathroom” consisting of a bath mat and “Pedestal Set” made in cross-stitch with rug wool on mesh canvas. With penguins and fish! If you can’t get to Antarctica for your next holiday, the penguins can come to you.

My project this month will be a destash adaptation of the “Fuzzy-Wuzzy” cardigan. Happy holidays, or whatever else June brings for you.

May 1965: Overview

Spring and summer are always time for “holidays” at Stitchcraft, with a mixture of light, pretty blouses, warmer, casual jackets and sweaters for that holiday on a North Sea beach, and easy embroidery to pack in your luggage and work on while lounging in your deck chair. Our cover photo shows matching his-and-hers sweaters made in DK wool, and an intriguing photo begging to be captioned. “It’s for you!” “Not interested” “But it’s my mother!” “I am definitely not home” — Anyway, the sweaters are nice and good to “wear by the sea”, as it says in the caption. They are knitted in Patons “Flair”, a combination of Shetland wool and Courtelle nylon in a slightly thicker DK weight.

The remaining adult knitted “holiday” garments are pretty and practical: a men’s tweedy “country” cardigan, a heavy slip-on jacket for women in a sort of bubble pattern made by purling stitches together, wrapping them and purling them again on one row out of a 4-row rib pattern, a lightweight lacy top with a graded colour scheme, or a slipover in mohair blend “Fuzzy-Wuzzy” wool. There’s also a fashionable dress in bramble-stitch, made to look like crochet, but knitted. Colours are soft, cool pastels — white, natural, sky blue or light pink.

The “crochet look” in knitting, as exemplified by the dress, is the latest trend. If you can’t crochet, you can knit to make it look like crochet, and if you can, you can make a matching mother-daughter blouse set in wool-nylon blend “Nylox” yarn. There’s also a full-page “Learn to Crochet” illustration with clear and helpful instructions for the basic stitches. I keep it around for easy reference.

There’s nothing for very young babies in this issue, but toddlers can get a nice beach set of knitted pants and short-sleeved cardigan. The cable panels supposedly make it hold its shape, but it’s not intended to go in the water. The toddler’s tween sister gets a sunny and colourful “young style” blazer in DK wool and a “continental” design. I still don’t know what is meant by “continental” design — obviously referring to the European continent as opposed to the British isles, but I wouldn’t be able to say what design elements make something “continental.” If you know, do tell.

The summer housewares are fairly standard, with a floral cross-stitch design for either a cushion or tablecloth, and a knitting workbag featuring dancing “gay Tyrolean” figures. I know some gay Tyrolean dancers, but that’s a different story. There’s also an embroidery pattern for an easy tablecloth or “dressing-table set”.

And then there are some genuinely interesting place mats with figures of birds and fish adapted from Peruvian work. The “wingless bird” in the close-up photo looks like a rhea and the black and white one probably a guan. I don’t know about the third bird in the first photo, the squished-up one with a long neck, how about you?

There’s also a rug, for not taking along on holiday, as well as a fancy knitted lace cloth “for a summer table” (It is knitted in cotton and therefore wash- and bleachable, but still, I would be afraid to spill something on it.) And of course, cosies! Both egg- and teapot-, to knit from scraps of tapestry wool held double (not knitting wool as one would expect).

That’s all for this issue. I’m going to close with this wonderful Scotch Wool Shop advertisement for Bri-Nylon swimsuits. I would wear either of these in a heartbeat. Enjoy the Spring!

April 1965: “Spot” Design Adaptation

For this month’s project, I wanted to try something different and convert a cross-stitch pattern into knitting. The April 1965 issue of Stitchcraft had two designs for counted-stitch cushions embroidered with tapestry wool on coarse “Portree” cloth. Portree seems to be a grouped-thread fabric similar to Aida, but doesn’t seem to be manufactured under this name anymore. (If you know anything about it, please tell me!)

Anyway, I don’t like counted cross-stitch and I have enough cushions, but I was interested to see how one could convert the cross-stitch pattern into knitted form and what type of object or garment it would be suitable for. Theoretically, any counted-stitch chart can be used as a knitting chart. In practice, many cross-stitch patterns are not suitable for stranded or intarsia knitting due to the number of colours in a row or the placement of motifs. I thought this design would work as an intarsia design because the motifs are small and self-contained. The diagonal lines could be added in later either with embroidery on the finished knitting, or with duplicate stitch.

The original pattern uses Lime, Orange and Brown wools on natural colour cloth (how very 1960s.) I had lots of scraps of Shetland wool and used green (lime, I guess) and yellow (lemon?) for the spots on a slightly pink natural background. For the little motifs between the spots (brown in the original design), I chose some pink silk-wool blend of which I also had a small amount left over. The spots are 3, 5, 7, 7, 7, 5, 3 stitches wide and I stranded the wool on the seven-stitch rows and twisted the background and spot colours together at the changes on the edges of the spots. I made a modified square with slightly rounded edges, thinking if I didn’t know what to do with it, I could always mount it in a circular embroidery hoop-frame and hang it on the wall. Nine rows of spots made a piece about 10 inches wide and 9 inches long. Here it is after blocking, but before adding the duplicate stitch lines:

So far, so good. Of course, there were a million ends to weave in.

The duplicate stitch lines were surprisingly difficult. They are supposed to go from one 5-stitch-wide row to another, but I couldn’t always make it work out with the diagonals and the number of stitches and rows. Mathematically, it should not be a problem. In practice, I guess I didn’t always find the correct stitch to duplicate.

At this point, I had realised that I could fold it in half to make a little rectangular case for pencils or double-pointed needles. Not that I need that, particularly, but if it turned out well enough, I could give it away or sell it or something. I bought a small piece of yellow cotton for the lining and a zipper, sewed it up and there it was.

Sewing in the zipper was a disaster, as it usually is, and for some reason, the finished bag is a bit… warped? It was perfectly flat, as was the lining, before putting in the zipper. I think the knitted fabric pulled a little more on one side than the other. But other than that, it’s fine.

I could imagine a design like this for a rectangular sort of garment, like a slipover/vest/whatever you call it thing with no sleeves — sort of like an argyle design. The only truly annoying part is weaving in the thousand ends. This was a good learning experience and I definitely feel more confident about converting cross-stitch designs after doing it.

April 1965: Overview

Stitchcraft’s April 1965 theme is “Out in the Open Knitting”, with “country” style cardigans and jackets to be worn outdoors, and easy homeware projects that are “just the type of work to do through the lighter evenings and out of doors.” Spring is here!

Our cover photo features a “stroller jacket” made in tweedy “Glenora” wool. At 30 to 32 ounces and made in stocking stitch, I fear it would stretch and sag to much longer than the 34-35 inches given in the pattern. The other adult “outdoor” garments are similarly heavy: a “country jacket” in bulky Big Ben wool and knotted-stitch pattern and a square-shaped men’s jacket in double-moss stitch. Outdoor colours include natural beige and brown tones as well as sky blue.

The “indoor” garments are less bulky and use matching layers to adapt to capricious spring temperatures: a subdued twin set with “braided” bolero-style border on the cardigan and a set of jumper + “overblouse” slipover. The twin set and jumper are in lightweight 4-ply wool, the overblouse in DK.

Colours are muted and match well with the outdoor neutrals: , soft pink, peachy-orange and grey-brown tweed. There’s an “indoor” pullover for men as well, in tweedy green to match the outdoor country theme.

Children of all ages get “bread-and-butter” garments for school and play. There’s a crocheted baby jacket to be made either without shaping (“for a boy”) or with a skirted matinee coat shape (“for a girl”). There’s a tunic dress for a somewhat older girl, featured in one of my favourite photographs ever. Drink your tea… or else! The dress is pretty cool too: decorated with embroidered chain-stitch over nubbly Rimple DK wool.

School-age kids can get a practical unisex waistcoat for school wear, or a very nice fine-knit cardigan in 3-ply “Brilliante” wool. Brilliante was a wool blend using “Orlon” acrylic fiber, which had been invented in 1941 but only started to be popular for hand-knitting use in the mid-1960s. See also: the two advertisements in this issue touting the qualities of Brilliante and Orlon: soft, washable and thoroughly modern.

There are all sorts of homewares to choose from, most of them fairly standard: a striped, darned rug, a church kneeler in trammed-stitch tapestry, cutwork place mats, a simple embroidered cushion… There’s a flowery embroidered tablecloth for Easter (Easter Sunday was rather late in 1965, falling on April 18th, but still — better get that tablecloth done soon!) and two more cushions in counted cross-stitch work.

The two more interesting projects are a pattern for tatted place mats and napkin rings, or tapestry chair seats with an oceanic theme. Tatting designs are rare in Stitchcraft, so this was a special “by request” pattern. The sea-life chair seats are quite pretty and elaborate. One design features sea shells and coral, the other “Pond Life” — flowers, insects and butterflies. They are made with tapestry wool on canvas.

That’s all! My project for this month will be unusual: an adaptation of the cross-stitch “spot” design in knitting. I love the design, but I don’t like counted work and I don’t need any more cushions. I think it would work really well as an argyle-like intarsia + embroidered lines pattern for fingerless gloves. We’ll see how that works!

March 1965: Overview

It’s springtime! And the March 1965 issue of Stitchcraft is celebrating it with a bright, cheerful issue full of fun designs, great photography and very mid-60s hairdos. Our wonderful couple in the cover photo has just returned from the farmers’ and or flea market, proud of their purchases and sporting two of this season’s trends: textured stitch patterns and crochet.

“The interest in Crochet continues” writes “editress” Patience Horne in the first-page notes, reminding readers that crochet is not nearly as difficult as some readers think, as it is “all founded on the simple chain stitch” and one “only requires a little practice and patience” to make a simple item. The cover dress is basically unshaped, and made in a relatively simple cluster stitch with a dashing fringed hem and neckline. Beginning crocheters can start with an easy bathroom mat in rug wool, or a crocheted chicken toy for a toddler.

Men’s fashions, like the cardigan on the cover, have a loose, casual fit and interesting stitch patterns, like the traveling stitches on the cover cardigan or the easy diamond-pattern stitch on the V-neck pullover. The traveling stitches are basically very narrow cables, except the cables never cross, and the diamond pattern is made entirely of knit and purl stitches. Colours are either warm and bold, like the red cardigan, or 1960s natural, like the “Golden Beige” pullover, and buttons are big and round.

The knitted women’s garments show a similar interest in flat, textured stitches, warm or neutral colours and bold buttons and trim. The skirt suit on the inside front cover integrates all three trends. There’s a similarly patterned, buttoned and collared beige-and-orange cardigan in DK weight Brilliante wool/nylon mix, a red belted pullover with a polo (turtle) neck and a more subtle skirt suit with choice of pullover or cardigan and pleated skirt, made in finder Bouclet wool. In all the photos, the warm colours of the outfit — green, red, or gold-beige — are intensified by the warm-toned photo background, and the bolder designs feature models with impressive bouffant hairdos. All of the garments are long, loose and unshaped, with the tops reaching to the hips and a skirt length of 25 to 26 inches.

There are some great designs for school-age children in this issue, with a “continental” cardigan-blazer in “Riviera Blue” for girls and a unisex jersey with a stranded yoke design. Here too, we see the large collar and bold, round buttons on the cardigan, and warm colour palette and textured stitch pattern on the pullover. For babies, there’s a pram blanket with (purchased separately, not home-made) bunny motifs.

The homeware items are mostly practical and versatile. In addition to the crocheted bathmat, there’s a stitched rug/mat “for the bedroom” in an elegant arrowhead stitch and some cushion and/or stool-top designs in counted cross-stitch. A floral embroidery pattern can be adapted to make a door panel, frame a cushion, or decorate the edge of a pillowcase.

I wrote “mostly” practical items, but there is one unusual exception: these “Brass Rubbings to work with your needle.” They are two fairly large (7×16 inches) wall panels with icons of medieval people in the style of “brass rubbings“, which are made by laying heavy paper over one of those brass plaques often seen in medieval churches . The designs were inspired by “the interest in Church embroidery” per the description of the project, but I don’t know if the figures are meant to be specific, recognisable historical people or just representative of a typical medieval brass burial plaque. (Do any of you recognise them? It’s interesting that both of them are portrayed with small dogs at their feet, which seems like it should be a clue.)

Last but not least, Easter is coming soon (well, not that soon — Easter 1965 was on April 19th, which is actually fairly late) and it’s time to get started on those Easter gifts and novelties! Continuing the chicken (and egg) theme from the crocheted toddlers’ toy, there’s a stuffed felt “egg nest” in the form of a chicken with tiny accompanying chicks, and a gloriously huge knitted “Humpty Dumpty”, guaranteed not to break into pieces should he fall off a wall, and featured in colour in the inside back cover photo along with the child’s stranded-yoke pullover.

As much as I love this issue for its general aesthetic and fun, happy vibe, there isn’t a project in it that really grabs me. The mid-60s fashion for long, loose, unshaped upper-body garments is a terrible look for me and the homewares are generally not spectacular. I would love to make either of the children’s garments and am asking around if any friends with kids that age would like me to knit one, but I haven’t had any takers yet. If any of you are interested in a custom order, let me know! Otherwise, I’ll probably embroider the flower design onto something practical, like a little bag or a tablet/iPad cosy.

Fast Forward: Lace and Ribs, January 1967

EDIT March 6th, 2023: Finished!

Since the February 1965 issue of Stitchcraft didn’t have any projects that interested me enough to want to make them, I spent this month working on some eternal WIPs. One of them was this “slim style sweater” in a lace-and-rib pattern from Stitchcraft’s January 1967 issue.

If “Fast Forward, January 1967” seems familiar to you, you are not wrong! I had already made this wonderful “Fashion for Tots” children’s jacket a couple of years ago, and tried my hand at a pleated skirt “pinafore” intended to go over this slim-style sweater (see picture below). The pinafore dress was, unfortunately, a failure, as the wool was too heavy and the finished garment just sagged and sagged. I ended up frogging the whole thing and using the wool for my very first blog project, the Green check jumper from January 1960. Notwithstanding the pinafore, the January 1967 issue is incredible and has so many projects in it that I want to make that it’s a go-to when I can’t find anything I like in a current issue.

The lace-and-ribs jumper was a perfect fit for my stash of green Slow Wool Lino yarn that I picked up a couple of years ago while working on a project in a different city. Sadly, the yarn has been discontinued, so the 300 grams I bought was all there was to be had in this colour (I managed to get 400 grams of salmon pink and made this lovely non-Stitchcraft Clarel last year, as well as 400 grams of bright purple and 300 grams of grey-brown for future projects unknown, at least). Would it be enough?

The body is made in 4×3 ribbing and the “lacy” pattern on the yoke and sleeves is made by doing two yarn-overs ater one another and knitting and purling them on the next row or round, making more of an open rib pattern rather than a true lace. Ribbing eats up yarn, but openwork uses less, so it was hard to call. In anticipation that it might not be enough, I made the sweater from the bottom up in the round and the sleeves knitted-on from the top down. That way, I could use a different wool for the sleeve cuffs and/or neck ribbing if necessary, or make short sleeves, or cap sleeves, or no sleeves.

As it turned out, I was able to exactly use up the 300 grams of yarn to make the sleeves in the normal length. Only the neck ribbing remained. Nobody on Ebay or Ravelry had any Slow Wool Lino on offer in this shade, so I visited my lovely local yarn shop and bought a skein of Rowan Moordale in a slightly lighter shade of green. It’s also slightly thicker and fluffier than the Slow Wool Lino and quite soft, so it worked fine for the neck ribbing.

The finished jumper fits fine, feels soft and comfortable, and looks great. I wore it to my Monday night knit group and we had fun recreating one of the original photos.

Very happy with this project!

February 1965: Overview

Whew! January is over. I don’t know about all of you, but it’s my least favourite month. The holidays are a dim memory, it’s still cold and dark and damp in my northern climate, and spring feels far away.

Stitchcraft seems to know how I feel, since this month’s issue features outdoor photos in pretty, colourful outfits and interesting settings “to get away from the last of that tired January feeling.” There are lots of warm indoor-outdoor garments, like the boxy jacket on the cover with cable details on the pockets and collar. It matches a short-sleeved cable jumper to make a casual twin-set or to be worn separately, and both are showcased in the centrefold photo montage with another “country cardigan” in a twisted-stitch wheat-ear pattern. The cover cardigan and cabled jumper are both made in warm, normal Patons DK, the country cardigan in slightly thicker Flair. All have the typical mid-60s shape: long, loose-fitting and unshaped, and are made in natural, outdoorsy colours of off-white, gold and caramel brown.

The other adult women’s garments include an intriguing sweater in a “crunchy bramble knit … to look like crochet.” The bramble pattern is made by making a k1, yo, k1 all into the same stitch, then purling these 3 stitches together on the next row. It’s presumably very warm, uses a lot of wool and while it doesn’t exactly look like crochet, it has the same sort of nubbly texture you could get with crochet stitches. There’s no colour photo, but in white, “Golden Willow” and “Oakapple”, it fits nicely into the outdoor-casual colour scheme. For something a little less casual and a little more colourful, there’s a tweedy bright-purple cardigan suit in heavy-weight “Glenora”and two more elegant, fine-knit designs: a smooth, collared turquoise jumper with front-panel detail in Cameo Crepe and a bouclet suit with a dramatic blue-and-white colour-block design.

The men’s garments are casual and outdoorsy in form, but colourful and creative in design: a casual (though he’s probably secretly wearing a tie under it…) boat-neck pullover in a two-colour pattern made by knitting the RS rows in “Cool Lime” green and working the WS rows as k1, p1 in “Tahiti” brown. Even more impressive is the pullover in a remarkable “woven texture from Vienna”, featured in colour in the back cover. This “new Continental stitch” is made by combining normal two-colour stranded knitting with “long” stitches (wool wrapped three times around the needle) which are then slipped for a few rows before being knitted back in. It’s ingenious and produces a very striking effect without being very difficult to knit. Here too, natural colours of brown, beige and green are trending.

My photos aren’t crooked, by the way. It seems to be a trend to have the models stand at an angle, or have the models stand straight and take the photo at an angle, to get that dynamic diagonal effect.

And speaking of dynamic, check out this fantastic “play sweater for the space age”! It’s got a “cheerful mechanical man” motif on the front and is matched with a “jolly robot” hat (same motif, but with bobbles on top that make the robot look like a cheerleader.) This is as 1965 as it gets! The other children’s fashions are practical and easy: a back-buttoning “pinafore” and matching jumper for little girls (could she please wear more clothing on her lower body, though?) and a broken-rib button-up for school-age tots made with “Brilliante” synthetic-blend yarn.

The embroidery and housewares department is less exciting, with a few standard items in different craft categories. There’s a cross-stitch “ABC” rug for the children’s playroom, an apron and traycloth set in huckaback embroidery and easy counted- and cross-stitch items for the table.The inside back cover has a nice colour photo of a cross-stitch picture panel of the church spire in Chester.

There are so many fantastic designs in this issue, and yet I don’t have a practical use for any of them. Big, casual sweaters with no shaping are not really my style (even in that fabulous Viennese stitch) and I can’t think of any children I know of the right age and size who would want a space-age, robot-motif sweater (more’s the pity). If anyone wants to commission me to make one for their kid (to fit 28/30/32 inch chest), send me an email! Otherwise, I’ll use this month to finish a long-term WIP from a slightly later issue of Stitchcraft.

January 1965: Norwegian Cap and Mitts

Photo of hat and mitten set worn by model, Stitchcraft magazine, January 1965 issue.

I had long admired this cap and mitten set and was very happy to arrive at this issue in order to knit it.

… That is, until I actually took a better look at the pattern and made it! The snowflake pattern and folded stocking-cap design looks great in the photo, but the pretty setting and pose detract from some of the design flaws, which became glaringly apparent once I started work on it.

But first things first: It’s written for Patons DK yarn, 100% wool, in white with “Lipstick Red” pattern. I have a good stash of leftover DK wool from other projects and decided on a dark blue background (Schachenmayr Regia 6-ply sock wool) with the pattern in white (Wolle Rödel Soft Merino) and blue-grey (Lana Grossa Cool Wool Big Mélange) to really bring out the snowflakes. The written pattern gives no row gauge and assumes a tension of 6.5 stitches to the inch over the stranded pattern on No. 10 (3.25 mm) needles for the mittens, and 6 stitches to the inch on No. 8 (4 mm) needles for the hat.

6 and especially 6.5 stitches to the inch is quite tight for DK wool, but I did my best on 3.5 needles (I don’t have 3.25 needles — the pattern is written for old UK sizes) and started with the hat. I noticed it was meant to be knitted flat and seamed up the back, but no worries, I could just make it in the round. There was even a chart (not a given with vintage patterns), so everything seemed fine.

Well — after the first snowflake, it was clear that this hat would not fit any adult head, even that of the friend it was intended for, whose head is quite small. Knitting stranded DK that tightly just made it impossible to stretch, as well. Looking back at the photo, I noticed that the finished hat is just sort of perched on the of the model’s head, not pulled down over her forehead like one would normally wear a hat…! Yeah, 6 stitches to the inch is too tight. So I started over with 4 mm needles for the pattern and 3.5 mm for the ribbing.

That solved the first problem, but as soon as the large diamond pattern started, I noticed how badly designed the colourwork pattern was. There were huge gaps between colour changes, necessitating weaving-in the wool constantly, and even then, the white wool showed in the gaps. I can’t imagine how this would have worked with stranding bright red behind white! Even worse, the pattern doesn’t match up in any way at the “seam” / round change. The large diamonds just get swallowed into each other like in of all those Netflix opening credits that use mirror effects. I was able to finesse it on the smaller snowflake and the repeat of the medium-size snowflake at the top of the hat, and the back “seam” does get covered by the long upper part of the hat when it fold over, but still, it looks messy.

Starting on the mittens, it became obvious why the hat pattern was so badly designed: The mitten pattern is perfectly centered and balanced and looks fine. There’s no problem with patterns bleeding into each other because the decreases only happen at the top of the fingers, and no big problem with weaving in across the back, because the back-of-the-hand and palm pieces are knitted flat and separately and there is no patterning on the palm, so the pattern motifs are made in sort of stranded intarsia. It seems the designer designed a pattern for mittens and, when instructed to make a matching hat, just extended the pattern out to hat size without much though about pattern placement or correct sizing.

Speaking of sizing, though… The finished mittens were way too long! I have size 8 hands and really long fingers, but even they look stubby on this photo, simply because the mitten length is out of all proportion. Looking at the magazine photo again, I think they are too long for the model’s hands as well. Yes, I should have checked it as I went along, but of course I didn’t, so I only noticed the problem after all the pieces were made and seamed together. (Using a crochet seam as directed in the pattern.) I thought I could block them shorter… Erreur fatal! Blocking not only made no difference in the size, it cemented that crocheted seam so solidly that it was not possible to undo it in order to frog and re-knit the mitten tops in a better size. By the time I was finished “undoing” the first mitten seam, the whole mitten looked like it had been mangled by a dog.

I will give the hat to my friend as intended, as it turned out OK and the weaving-in blotches mostly disappeared after blocking. It does look cute, especially with a pompom on the tip. As for the mittens, I consigned them to the upcycling drawer, as I just didn’t want to deal with them any more.

This project was no fun to knit, but I will call it a learning experience and move on. And I do think my friend will like the hat, at least.