February 1964: Overview

Cover photo from Stitchcraft magazine, February 1964

Knit for Spring Sunshine! It’s four o’clock in the afternoon here on February 1st, 2022, getting dark, raining sleet and there has not been a single minute of today where I was able to do anything without turning on the lights, so I am especially happy to dream of modelling beautiful handknits in sunny Polperro in Cornwall, where this issue was photographed.

Colour variations are a big theme this month, be it tweedy new multicolour yarns, stripes or classic stranded colourwork and intarsia. Our cover model shows off the gradient look in a fun diamond-pattern sweater with a matching tie and cap. Both cap and sweater are knitted in intarsia technique with the different colours of wool wound onto bobbins, but strangely, I can’t see the diamond pattern on the cap at all. I guess it’s because the top part of the cap only uses the two darker colours, and they don’t show up well in a black and white photo (see close-up of the cap below).

Collars and ties make an appearance in the tweed dress from the inside front cover, made in multicolour “Glenora” wool, and there’s a sparkly tweed suit in purple Bracken Tweed wool as well. Men get a classic raglan V-neck, also in Glenora tweed. Deep jewel tones (I’m guessing the colour “Trossach” from the men’s pullover is a sort of deep fenny green, named after the Trossachs area in the Scottish Highlands) are in fashion as well as gold, featured in two pullovers on the inside pages. A loose, casual fit with no shaping remains the preferred silhouette (or lack thereof).

For contrast, there’s a classic, lightweight jumper in 4-ply wool bouclet. The jumper style would be right at home in other decades, but the photo style is as 60s as you will ever find, with an extreme close-up of a round braided place mat used as a backdrop. I’m almost waiting for it to start swirling! Finishing off the adult garments is a cheerful striped cardigan in 4-ply Nylox (wool/nylon blend).

The accessories match the garments well, using the same wools and in similar casual, oversized style. Besides the diamond cap, there’s a knitted cap in Glenora with fur trim and a “baker boy” cap to crochet.

There’s nothing for babies or very young children in this issue, but older kids can get some very nice new additions to their wardrobe, like this wonderful dress in blue Bracken Tweed with contrasting checked collar and cuffs, or a sweater for boys with in intriguing tab collar and colour detail at the hem. There’s also a balaclava-style “helmet” to keep out any March winds.

With all these larger projects to knit, it’s no wonder that the homewares are less than spectacular this month. There are embroidery projects for sofas, chair backs and pelmets (N.B. if you, like me, are not familiar with the last word, it’s that strip of fabric at the top of old-fashioned curtains, that hides the curtain rings / mechanism.) There’s a cushion and/or fire screen in a traditional Yugoslavian pattern, a stitched bathroom rug, a tapestry picture and dressing-table mats in cutwork embroidery. The cushion in “Continental laced stitch” is the most interesting of the projects, to me — it’s made by drawing threads and stitching around the resulting rows of holes, then putting the cover over a contrasting-colour cushion.

There is no children’s comic this time (how sad!) but the “Readers Pages” offer a reprint of a 1955 pattern for knee-high cabled socks, instructions on how to make a wool daisy and a magnificent “flower basket” teapot cosy featuring those wool daisies. If you’re on Ravelry and search projects for “flower basket” tea cosies, you will find many similar examples — this seems to be a popular item in modern times as well! The Patons wool advertisement shows a happy baby whose grandmother has knit him something pretty, and the back-cover Lightning Zip ad has a very practical dress pattern laid out. I’m tempted to copy it large and sew it up.

That’s all for this issue. My project will be the (faux) fur-trimmed tweed hat. See you soon and until then, let’s dream of spring sunshine!

January 1964: Overview

Happy New Year! It’s 1964 in the Stitchcraft blog world. “Busy as we all are,” writes “editress” Patience Horne in the issue notes, “it is surprising how many things needlewomen manage to make in a year.” Well, it’s my New Year’s handcraft resolution to finish up WIPs and reduce yarn stash, so let’s see how many new things I will manage to make.

(Apropos finishing up WIPs, I finally finished two very detailed and extravagant cushions: these blackwork butterflies and this amazing neo-Jacobean embroidered felt appliqué extravaganza, so be sure to check out the updated posts.)

Back to January 1964, what does the New Year have in store for us, fashion-wise? At first glance, it doesn’t look much different from the trends of 1963. Garments are warm, bulky, tweedy and textured, and homewares are traditional and floral. The Swinging Sixties have not swung through the pages of fashion-conservative Stitchcraft yet. Still, the designs are fun and easy-going, the bulky items quick to make.

Our cover design is a sweater suit in in plain DK and tweedy Patons “Glenora” wool. There’s an equally tweedy cardigan in bulky Ariel for women as well as garments with fun colour motifs and textured stripes. The colours are warm and vibrant, with deep pinks and yellows prevailing. Men get a very yellow pullover with nice cable details and a zip-up cardigan for the casual “country look” (with a coquettish smile from our handsome model.)

Appropriately enough for January, the accessories are warm and practical: cheerful hats in an interesting tied-loop stitch for “him and her” and warm mittens in stranded colourwork. As usual for this time, the stranded patterns, even for gloves, are worked back and forth, with front and back pieces worked separately and crocheted together.

There are three fantastic designs for a young girl in this issue: a wonderful “walking set” for a toddler, a warm wool dress for an ice-skater and — at long last! — hand-knitted tights to keep a girl’s legs warm. (Strangely, our skating model is not wearing the tights, though you think she would need them out on the ice more than the young model pictured in an indoor setting!) I love the toddler’s outfit, with its contrasting colour in the flared back seam of the coat and ribbing on the hat, mittens and leggings. I like the seated girl’s dress too, as well, though it’s neither knitted nor one of the magazine’s designs.

The homeware projects are fairly standard: a floral tablecloth, a tartan tapestry chair seat, a decorative panel with a white vase worked on a red background. The “music” tapestry motif is quite classic, as is the tapestry kneeler for church use.

As always, some of the most interesting features are tucked away in the back pages. I would love to be able to send away for this sewing design, offered by Vogue patterns in cooperation with Stitchcraft. It’s a simple, sewn woolen “pinafore dress” that could be worn over a blouse or lightweight jumper, with a blazer for a suit effect, etc. Unfortunately, I can’t sew well enough to reverse-engineer a no-longer-existent sewing pattern from a photo. Also, what a beautiful knitted doily.

As much as I would love to make the toddler’s walking outfit, I don’t currently know a child of the right age, and starting another huge project seems daunting at the moment. I’ll probably skip ahead or back a few years to find a project from another issue that will help me de-stash. Stay tuned for details, and happy New Year!

December 1963: Appliquéd Archie

My December project was a bit of a detour: an adaptation of a little embroidery design from the “readers’ pages” of the December 1963 issue.

A lot of the embroidery and needlework projects in vintage Stitchcrafts have great designs, but are intended for items that I don’t personally need or use: tea cosies, finger plates, chair-back covers, fireplace screens and so on. I had already adapted some of the designs into decorations for useful modern things like this appliquéd tablet cosy, or this embroidered tablet cosy, or this other embroidered tablet cosy, or various vegetable bags like this one, this one, and this one. In this case, a dear person in my life had recently bought a pocket synthesizer and requested a soft case for it as a Christmas present. I aim to please, and adaptations are fun.

1960s Stitchcrafts always featured a children’s comic serial in the back pages, usually a fairy-tale-like story about a child or children (often, a brother and sister) who go on magical adventures. The adventures sometimes involve knitting or textile work, and there are often tie-ins with simple projects that a child could make and that relate to the story or the characters. The story that has been running in Stitchcraft since August 1963, “The Smuggler’s Sack”, stars children Joe and Jenny on a quest for the mysterious “Smuggler’s Sack” that is possibly hidden somewhere in the seaside town with a history of pirates (think Cornwall).

They are joined on their adventures by their horse, Archie, and the December issue offers a design for your very own “Smuggler’s Sack” bag to sew up easily from sailcloth and embroider with a cute portrait of Archie. The Archie picture was very cute and suitable for appliqué, I had an old pair of jeans that would make a great case as well as some fuzzy fleece that would look perfect as a horse’s head. The intended recipient even used to ride horses in their younger years, so it all fit perfectly.

What didn’t immediately fit perfectly was the design for the inside of the case. The pocket synthesizer is not flat: it has two knobs on the front that poke out about 2 centimetres, and two AAA batteries on the back that poke out about 1 centimetre. I had to decide whether to make a simple bag that didn’t conform to the shape, a closed case that let the knobs poke out, or a more complicated case with a made-to-fit inner lining. Of course, I chose the most complicated design…

… meaning I had to first figure out the inner dimensions of the front and back pads, and make sides for the case as well. I am not great at measuring or making things come out straight and even, so this was a challenge. I have to say, I did a really good job with the pattern, though! I made the front pad in felt and stuffed it with a bit of pillow stuffing, and the back pad with some folded fleece, then sewed them to a felt lining. The outer case was made of denim and of course had to be measured to fit perfectly. How frightening! (This is why I like knitted things that stretch and so not have to be perfectly exact).

The appliqué and embroidery was the easiest part and the most fun. I decided to not give Archie a bridle, as in the picture. The “Whee” caption is a joke between the recipient and myself, but conveniently also what a horse says when it neighs happily (if you stretch your imagination a little.) I hate setting in zippers and this one was particularly awful because of the felt and padding, but it worked out OK in the end.

I am really happy with Archie the pocket synthesizer horse and I think he will be well used and appreciated!

Merry Christmas, if that’s your holiday, and Happy New Year to you all.

December 1963: Overview

Cover photo from Stotchcraft magazine, number 360, December 1963

“Christmas is very nearly here” — where did the year go? As always, Stitchcraft‘s December issue is a mix of warm, bulky, quick-to-knit winter garments for the family and little handcrafts for presents and decorations.

Our cover model is wearing a hat in trendy “high-crowned” style with matching muffler. It uses “Glenora”, Patons new tweedy-multicolour wool. Unlike the “tufted” hat from last month’s issue, this one needs no millinery wire to keep it from flopping — the wool is relatively thick and is used double on the hat to make it really solid and windproof. The buttons are purely decorative and are made by covering button moulds with velvet cut from a strip of ribbon.

Other cold-weather accessories include these mitt(en)s, crocheted in a spiral to make the backs and fronts. Aside from the stripes on the fronts, they are almost identical to these mittens from February 1960. The full-size garments are all made of bulky wools for wamth and quicker knitting. There are pullovers for men and women in Big Ben or Ariel wools, a check-patterned pullover in double knitting weight and a cardigan “in larger sizes” (39-42 inch bust). Both of the bulky pullovers as well as the cardigan use variations on twisted or mock-cable stitch patterns, where you knit stitches in the “wrong order” in order to cross them. Big, pointy collars are still very much in fashion and the colours are bright and bold for winter: “Lipstick Red”, “Strawberry Ice” and “Royal Blue”.

Children get “Christmas sweaters” in holiday colours of red, green, and white, with bold snowflake motifs in stranded patterning.There’s a frilly bed jacket in lightweight 3-ply and a waistcoat variation on the men’s pullover, as well. They’re photographed in colour on the inside back cover. Funny that, with all the brightly coloured garments in the issue, they chose the one beige garment for the colour photo! You do see the tweed flecks better, though. That amazing creation at the top of the page is the Royal Pavilion in Brighton, reproduced in fine embroidery in felt appliqué. This isn’t the first huge, complicated wall panel project we’ve seen and I can only assume that Stitchcraft had a really good appliqué designer.

The other homeware/decoration projects are small and easy, intended for little gifts, holiday bazaar sales or to brighten up the festive table. You can knit a little puppy doll complete with its own fully dressed bed, or make some silly but nonetheless cute egg cosies (the human-looking one is supposed to be Friar Tuck.) There’s a “pinny” apron to sew for a child, party table mats with a star motif, and these stuffed and embroidered felt stars to hang on the tree. I made one of these last year and will probably make some more this year — they are quick to make and just the thing for a mini-present.

If you have a little more time (but don’t want to tackle the Brighton panel), you can knit a knitting bag, crochet a floor mat, or make a hard-wearing cushion in a standard “ribbon” needlepoint design. If you’ve really got some time on those long winter nights, you can make a set of dining-room chair seats in tapestry, or a large pile rug in a “Byzantine” design. (Beautiful leather satchel in that photo as well! It’s a just a prop, though, of course — Stitchcraft‘s crafts didn’t extend to leather-work.)

Then there’s this design for a little sewn bag with an embroidered horse named Archie on it. Archie, since you asked, is the horse in the children’s comic “The Smuggler’s Sack”, which has been running on the back pages of Stitchcraft for the past few months. It features children Joe and Jenny, who live in a waterfront town whose mystery pirate/smuggler treasure has never before been discovered. Will they be the ones to find it at last? As of yet, they’ve found a mysterious box … which has a false bottom … which contains a map and a key .. which leads them to .. an inn called “The Smuggler’s Sack.” They’re disappointed, but could the inn hold the clue they’ve been looking for? Shades of Daphne du Maurier!

“Archie” will in fact feature in my December project, where I will be embroidering him onto a modern soft case / traveling bag for a pocket synthesizer.

Happy Holidays, everyone!

November 1963: Overview

The autumn months are always the best for knitting magazines, with a mixture of heavy garments for colder days, easy-to-make holiday gifts, warm accessories and a few glamorous items for parties. Stitchcraft‘s November 1963 issue puts the focus on “warm family fashions… with the emphasis on colour and attractive textures that are interesting to knit and very becoming to wear”. There’s something for family members of every age and “for the petite to the not-so-slim.” The homewares and little projects are quick and fun to be finished in time for holiday decorating and/or gift-giving.

The “country jacket” on the cover continues the tweedy, variegated colour effect in fashion this fall, using Bracken Tweed wool for the main body and Totem DK for the collar and cuffs. I finally know what colour Totem “Oakapple” is! The other women’s outdoor-wear fashions include a zip-neck sweater with textured pattern bands in turquoise, an “overpull” with cabled neckline in flecked “Cantaloupe” colour (sadly, no colour photo, I have no idea how it looked in real life) and a simple brown top made glamorous by knitting the wool (Cameo Crepe 4-ply) together with a strand of sparkly Lurex thread. There’s also a warm, soft cape for winter reading in bed, knitted sideways in an easy zig-zag pattern. Aside from the green and white bedcape, shades of autumn brown as well as bold blues and red are the season’s trendy colours. Stripes, zig-zags and textures complete the Autumn 1963 look.

Men’s fashions are just as colourful as the women’s, or even more so (less use of plain brown…) and show more of the zig-zag trend. Here are some bold designs for “him and her” using bulky Big Ben wool (and photographed in front of…). The construction is the same for both, with the smaller design for bust sizes 33-35 inches and the larger for 39-41 inches, with the advice that “Plumper girls could follow his size”. The man’s pullover in “Italian colouring” uses stripes and textures, toned down by the use of more neutral colours. The blue-and-white cabled sweater in the photo next to it is for teenagers.

School-age children get their own “tough, tomboy sweaters” in Bracken Tweed wool. The suggested colours are “Black Olive” or “Gorse Heath”, which I assume is a sort of green-yellow tweed (no colour photo). Babies get a lovely shawl to match the layette from the September and October issues. It’s easy to knit, as the centre and borders are made separately. The other baby/nursery-age items are crocheted, sewn or stitched: a pram cover with a teddy-bear motif, a little nightcase with fluffy appliquéd kittens, a knitted doll, an embroidered “feeder”, sewn and appliquéd pinafore smocks…

There are fewer designs for accessories, but the utter fabulousness of this loop-stitch crocheted hat makes up for anything else that could be missing. The model in the photo features in many issues from this time period and always looks either quite sad or has that alluring Mona Lisa smile that’s she’s sporting here. (Am I mean, or wrong, to assume that she probably had bad teeth?) I would smile widely if wearing that hat, and I hope everyone who saw me in it would too. Also, knit your man a tie!

With all this bounty, the homewares are mostly standard: embroidered table mats and a Christmas-design tablecloth, a decorative panel with the Star of Bethlehem for more religiously-minded households, and a very impressive tatted doily and crocheted trolley-mat. The show-stopper is a lovely decorative panel “taken from a book of Oriental designs” embroidered in Filoselle silk on linen. (The design is allegedly of Persian origin, though of course neither Stitchcraft nor its typical readers of the time gave much thought to questions of authenticity, nomenclature, exoticism or any related issues that we would regard and discuss today.) It is a pretty picture in any case, and was probably not too difficult to embroider, consisting mostly of standard seed and straight stitches, French knots, and so on.

That’s all for this issue! I am going to make that wonderfully ridiculous hat.

October 1963: Overview

Cover photo, Stitchcraft magazine, October 1963

Tweed! Remember last month’s post with the advertisement for variegated-colour yarn? This month’s issue presents Patons’ new variegated wool, “Glenora Tweed”, a slightly thicker DK-weight wool with dark tweedy flecks. It appears to have been made up of 80% wool and 20% synthetic fibre. The twelve colours were chosen to be as vibrant as tweed can be (and very 1960s…) with rich shades of red, green, orange and yellow.

As it knits up fast at about 4 stitches to the inch (but promises to still give a “beautifully firm crunchy texture” i.e. hopefully not sag too much under its own weight), it is showcased with larger garments — the “pinafore-style” over-dress and men’s cardigan shown on the cover and two two-piece suits for women. There’s also a pinafore-style overdress with pleated skirt for a older girl and a boatneck sweater for men, both in similar Bracken Tweed wool. In keeping with the newer, looser and more square-shaped style, the garments have minimal or no shaping (except the girl’s outfit) and the skirts come to just above the knee. To me, the women’s Glenora garments look so similar that I had to check twice to assure myself that the pinafore dress on the cover (with high scoop neck) and the two-piece set with skirt and “overblouse” (V-neck) were in fact different designs.

There is a matching 4-ply (women’s) or DK-weight (girl’s) jumper to go underneath the pinafore looks or the overblouse, which, combined with the thick over-garments, must have been suitably warm for outdoors or poorly heated rooms in October. (The girl, of course, is going to have cold legs all the same.) For those who resist the tweed craze, there’s also a bright, fun colour-block sweater in a three-colour slip stitch pattern. I love the matching orange head scarf!

There’s also a fun 4-ply jumper for a child with some easy stranded colourwork blocks at the waist and yoke. The accessories continue the bulky, easy-to-knit trend, with a cap and scarf in Big Ben wool and a big, cosy scarf for men in an intriguing reversible cable-moss pattern.

Rounding out the family’s fall wardrobe is a matinee coat and “helmet”-style cap for a baby, matching the dress from the September issue. The November issue promises a warm shawl to match again, thus rounding out the set. Judging from the photo, “dear little baby Alicia” seems to have realised that the purpose of a helmet-style cap is to prevent the baby from removing it and flinging it around the room, and is suitably disappointed. It’s a great design, though, with the sides and chin strap done in garter stitch to accommodate movement and growing heads.

The homewares are plentiful and here again, there are some larger projects to be tackled at home during the colder Autumn days. The bright red rug in Soumak stitch and traditional design is vivid and cheerful, as is the Jacobean cushion “for the skilled needlewoman” which I would love to make if I didn’t already have two unfinished embroidered cushions in the WIP pile. (Not to mention that I am not skilled enough to make that elaborate a design, especially without a transfer.) The Autumn-themed acorn cushion is definitely easier. There’s a Regency ribbon design for tapestry or cross-stitch, too.

For those who want a quicker, easier homeware project or are already getting started on the Christmas presents, there are more embroidered acorns on cutwork mats and some knitted and crocheted goodies: a “Scottie-dog” night-case, a crocheted bag, and… a hippo, yes, a friendly knitted hippo stuffed animal. Well, why not? It’s cute. An older child might embroider her own Little Miss Muffet picture in cross-stitch.

The very last project in the issue, tucked way back in the “Readers’ Pages”, is the one I will make. In fact, I have been waiting for this issue to come up specifically so that I can make it! It is a very simply constructed and embroidered “Apron-cum-Knitting-Bag” where the front panel and waist ties of the apron fold into the bag part along with your knitting. Pull the drawstrings closed and carry the bag around, then when it’s time to knit you can undo the strings, pull the apron part out of the bag and tie it around your waist, Presto, you are ready to knit in any situation, standing or sitting, and your ball of wool will not fall down and roll about the room. Stay tuned for a project that will actually get finished on time, as well as progress on those projects that didn’t.

September 1963: Overview

Cover photo from Stitchcraft magazine, September 1963

“Knitting Time starts with a Sparkle” is Stitchcraft’s motto for the September 1963 issue, and the editress’ note assures us that “this is going to be a particularly interesting Autumn-Winter knitting season.” What does that mean for us? Lots of interesting use of bolder colours in traditional or not-so-traditional stranded and geometric patterns as well as subtler use of colour variation in tweeds and toning changes.

1963 was the year when variegated yarns, so beloved by modern knitters, first came into fashion (hence the “sparkle”), and although Patons doesn’t yet offer a truly colour-variegated yarn, here’s one from the competition: Bernat Klein No. 1, as featured in this stunning eight-page advertisement in Vogue Knitting Book No. 62 from 1963:

(The Lux and Opti-lon ads should look familiar to Stitchcraft enthusiasts as well.)

The tweedy look starts with the three-piece suit from the cover photo, consisting of a skirt, long-sleeved jumper and high-buttoning cardigan with stripe accents to bring out the lighter blue tweed flecks. Apropos “fleck”, that’s the name of the yarn: Totem Fleck. The jumper is made in the lighter, solid blue color with ribbing accents in the tweed shade. It seems to be a “switch-around” ensemble, i.e. you are not intended to wear the cardigan over the jumper as you would with a twin-set. Bracken Tweed, the somewhat bulkier tweed wool of the season (Totem Fleck is DK and Bracken is more like Aran-weight at 18 sts to the inch), is featured in this blazer “for young men who like comfortable clothes”. You know, the kind of clothes you can play ball sports in: a button-up shirt with tie, short wool trousers and a hand-knitted tweed blazer. Of course.

The other adult or teen garments feature bolder colours and interesting stranded or textured designs, like this intriguing dolman sweater with the stranded stripe running horizontally across the yoke and down the sleeves. I feel like this use of colour would look terrible on me (wide chest and long arms), but I love the idea! The man’s sweater uses a more traditional placement of the colour bands, but in contrasting green and orange tones and a spiky geometric diamond design (continuing the trend from summer 1963). The sweaters on the inside back cover have a more muted colour palette and subtle diamond texture pattern. Textured patterns make a showing in the other women’s garments as well: a bobbled raglan pullover, mock-cable cardigan and nubbly “Rimple” jumper. I want those glasses! The diamond-shape trend shows itself here in more subtle form via V-neck openings and pointy collars.

This issue also starts a new layette set for the youngest members of the family, starting with a warm dress, hat and bootees. Next month’s issue promises a matching matinee coat and cosy “helmet” cap. The caption for the modelled photo reads, “Jonathan is just 2 months” and reminds us that babies of both sexes wore lacy dresses with both pink and blue embroidery on them. 1963 was definitely a more sexist era, but also a more practical one in some ways.

There’s an interesting selection of Autumn-themed homewares as well, like a leafy fender-stool and chair-seat set, some blackwork finger-plates for the door (reminding me that I still have not finished my blackwork butterfly cushion from April…) a cushion and runner with Chinese motifs (I cannot vouch for any kind of authenticity — the motifs look very similar to the traditional European “Jacobean” designs to me, but what do I know), a pair of crochet-appliqué trolley cloths and a crochet-motif cushion.

And then there’s this “practical idea” — cover an old box (they used a wooden margarine box of about 16×12 inches and 8 inches deep, which sounds like a lot of margarine ha ha) with embroidered Binca canvas, cushion the lid with foam rubber under the embroidery and strengthen it with a piece of wood on the under-side and voilà: a “magazine tidy” which can also be used as a little stool to sit on. Very practical indeed and reduces clutter. I like it.

That’s all for this issue! I’ll be making the quick ! easy ! uses up leftovers ! crochet cushion. How quick and easy is it, you ask? I’ll tell you: it is so quick and easy that I started working on it last night, September 1st, and am already more than half finished: (Working on both halves of the cushion cover alternately so as to gauge how much wool I have of each colour.)

So there will definitely by a finished project in September, and hopefully this will give me some time to finish up the rest of the WIPs. I did also complete a retro-themed jumper of my own design which is not technically from Stitchcraft, but I’ll post about it anyway, because it was fun.

August 1963: Overview

End of the Season! Sadly, yes, the “holiday” season is drawing to a close and although it’s only the last day of July, it feels like autumn is around the corner. On the bright side, the late summer and autumn issues of Stitchcraft are always the most fun, with a good range of lighter-weight and warmer garments, children’s things for school, and more intricate homewares.

“The trend for colour use is in these bold clear motifs” writes “editress” Patience Horne, a trend which is reflected in “chunky”, boxy shapes, bright colours and simple stripe or geometric designs. The cover illustration shows two of a three-piece “his and hers” set — cardigan and mock-layered turtleneck for her and a buttoned-collar pullover for him– that all make use of single bold stripes. The woman’s matching pullover is made to look like a deep V-neck over a turtleneck top, but the under-layer is just an insertion knitted separately and sewn in.

There’s more use of simple, geometric motifs in the other women’s garments: a classic pullover with a wide check stripe down the front in double knitting and a colour-block cardigan with diamond motifs made in bulky “Ariel” wool. Diamond shapes are still trending from last month. There’s a bulky indoor-outdoor cardigan jacket in Big Ben wool, made in a slightly less simple striped waffle stitch. Necklines are high, whether buttoned or not, and collars are either big and square or non-existent.

Continuing the interesting neckline/collar trend, we’ve got unisex “tomboy tops” for children, with a cute “tie” decoration on one of the pullovers. Simple, bold stripes and pointy diamond patterns show up here as well, whether in colour or as a stitch pattern element. The one lighter-weight design is a square, buttoned-neck pullover with double stripes near the hem and a coordinated skirt. Rounding out the garments is a lovely classic cardigan for men featuring cables on the upper yoke and — you guessed it — in two simple lines down the fronts.

Unlike the knit designs, some of the embroidery and tapestry projects are quite elaborate and ornate. Look at these Chippendale chairseats! That seems quite out of place to me in a modern 1963 home of clean lines and unfussy decoration, but of course many of Stitchcraft’s readers were older and/or conservative in their style, and probably not on the cutting edge of home redecoration even if they had the money to spend on it (which I’m guessing most of the readership didn’t.) The “peasant motif” tablecloth and cross-stitch place mats have more of a clean, colour-block aesthetic. I really love the tablecloth design! It can also be adapted for a cushion. Speaking of cushions, here’s a fancy one made of essentially two very large, intricately knitted lace doilies joined together around the cushion base.

And let’s not forget that standby of every proper 1960s home… the fluffy hand-made bathmat and matching well-dressed “pedestal” aka toilet! Hats off to every grandmother and great-aunt who kept true to this amazing home furnishing concept throughout the rest of the 20th century. (Seriously, one of my great-aunts had a setup like this in her guest bathroom in the plushiest, fluffiest, yellow and black shag carpeting you could imagine, and I’m pretty sure it stayed there until the turn of the millennium.)

That about wraps it up for this month’s issue. The ads are unspectacular and a new children’s comic is starting up, featuring twins Joe and Jenny on their hunt for the legendary “Smuggler’s Sack” that just might be waiting to be found in the caves near the beach. Good luck, little friends! My project for this month will be the men’s cabled cardigan.

July 1963: Overview

Cover photo of Stitchcraft magazine, July 1963

“In the Holiday Limelight” is the theme of this month’s issue, covering sporty, casual garments for holiday wear, a few slightly more dressy options and — with one incredible exception — quick and easy homeware projects.

Most of the adult garments seem quite warm and heavy for summer wear, but most are meant to be worn as outerwear in an unpredictable northern-maritime climate. Our partner-look cover duo, for example weighs in at 22-24 (hers) or 28-30 ounces of heavily cabled DK wool and is expressly touted as “in colour for sailing” (hers) or “white for tennis” (his). I imagine it would be quite warm for tennis but probably very good for sailing, as the textured stitch pattern would ward off splashes and insulate from cold winds. Unusual cables are also featured on the bright yellow button-up cardigan, while the design (“from Vienna”) of the mens’ black-and-white pullover suggests a cable-like vertical movement in the sideways-knitted colourwork front piece. A short-sleeved collared jumper and houndstooth-pattern jacket round out the warmer, double-knitting-weight garments.

For more dressy occasions, there are two lightweight jumpers made of Patons Cameo Crepe (fingering-weight wool with a tight twist for a smooth texture in stocking stitch). Both have a slightly nautical theme, at least in the names and colour choices. The “sailor collar” jumper is excellently photographed with matching red hairband and telephone! The diamond-pattern jumper in white with marine blue has a similar round collar to the heavier short-sleeved jumper, as well as a similar idea of using little dots or diamonds as decoration. (I imagine the diamonds must be placed very carefully to fall above the bustline.)

There’s a charming striped cardigan for a young girl, who could be encouraged to practice her budding handcraft skills on two miniature cross-stitch pictures — a deer and a koala bear. Embroidered on Bincarette mesh fabric (an older word for Binca fabric, roughly the same as Aida but slightly fewer threads per inch), the background is not filled in, so there are very few stitches to actually make and they could be easily done by a young child to hang in her room. More experienced “embroideresses” can make this densely-worked cushion, which combines cross-stitch with Holbein or double running stitch in a tessellated design.

Continuing the homeware designs are two hard-wearing, but very easy to make, applique/embroidery cushions for the garden. Perfect for a staycation, they are made with strong sailcloth material and stuffed with foam clippings to repel moisture. Readers could set their garden table with interesting placemats made in blackwork or with appliquéd crocheted bands. Especially pious readers who prefer to spend their holiday doing church work can even make a kneeler, a Bible marker and/or a secular footstool cover in tapestry.

Oh yes, and in the is it-for-a-bazaar-or-is-it-just-bizarre category, here are some “amusing” coffee-pot and egg cosies in the form of sad, legless, eyes-follow-you-around-the room-quilted cats! Add them to your collection of murderous crocheted clowns, evil felt Father Christmases and disembodied-head egg cosies, or demand that your church sell them at their next bazaar in return for the lovely Bible marker you made for them.

But wait, there’s more, and as always, the best comes last… Did I say that the homewares were easy, with one incredible exception? I am in awe of this large (16×22 inches) yet finely detailed appliqué wall hanging depicting the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party from Alice in Wonderland. It is the companion piece to the “Alice” wall hanging showing the Queen of Hearts and the gardeners from the August 1962 issue, and is designed so that both pictures can be fitted together to make a single panel. The stitch detail and precision required to make all those tiny felt pieces fit perfectly is amazing.

That wraps it up for our July 1963 issue! I will probably make the diamond-pattern jumper, since I have some more of the annoying un-plied cotton from the Hamburger Wollfabrik that I might as well use to make something with, and the long-line style will suit me well. I might, just might, also finish the blackwork butterfly cushion sometime soon. Happy Summer!

June 1963: Practical Coat

Baby in a knitted cardigan, pattern photo from Stitchcraft magazine, June 1963

My June 1963 project was a lovely (if not quite as practical as the title suggests) “matinee coat” for a baby. Two styles are given in the pattern, “for a girl” (long coat with ribbing at the waistline, flared skirt and collar) or “for a boy” (straight up and down, basic cardigan styling.) Both styles have dainty flower embroidery as decorative accents. Not wanting to inflict 1960s gender roles on a modern baby and also not having a personal preference, I asked one of the child’s parents which style they liked more, and the answer was “the long coat”, so the long coat it was.

As for the wool, last year another colleague of mine, who knows that I like to knit from vintage patterns, came into a rather large stash of yarn when an elderly relative moved into a care home. Apparently, she (the relative) had liked to crochet and make latch-hook rugs, and when the younger generation of non-crafters cleared out her house, my colleague knew who would give the yarn a good home. There was some great stuff! In addition to a latch hook and some cut rug yarn in very 1960s shades of brown, tan, rust, beige and olive green, there was enough bright cotton to make a crocheted baby blanket, some nice, soft, plain white wool that would be great for baby clothes, and 400 grams of light blue “Puppenfee”, a yarn made by the German Junghans Wolle company in the 1960s? 1970s? which combines light 4-ply wool with a shimmery, presumably nylon or Lurex “Effektfaden”.

Just a selection — there was a lot more of each type of yarn!

The base colour is light blue, and the nylon strand makes the knitting softly sparkly and also very elastic — perfect for a baby cardigan. Happily, light blue was also the parents’ preferred colour, I had plenty of it and the tension and size in the pattern were perfect for this one-year old infant.

The coat is made in one piece from the moss-stitch lower border to the armholes, and the moss-stitch is carried up throughout the stocking-stitch skirt part in narrow vertical bands that make the skirt pleat prettily after the waist is gathered in with decreases and ribbing. Then the fronts and back are continued separately. I made the sleeves in the round from the top down, since that was faster, and made them a little longer than the pattern called for, as the baby is on the tall and thin side and will presumably get longer in the arms before it gets wider in the middle. (Though you never know with babies, but the cardigan is big enough to hopefully fit for a while in any case.)

Both the sleeve edges and interestingly, the collar are hemmed — in the case of the collar, that means stitches are picked up around the neckline as usual, then the collar is knitted in stocking stitch the “wrong way out” i.e. the inner side would be facing once the collar was opened down, then you make a purl ridge for the fold line and knit stocking-stitch for the depth of the collar back again and then sew it together. The result is very neat and crisp. There’s a narrow band of moss stitch (just 3 stitches) at the front corners of the collar to tie it together with the bands in the skirt.

The rosebud embroidery was very easy, no transfers, just a sketch in the pattern and colour choice suggestion. I used bits of leftover Jamieson & Smith Shetland wool in pink, white and green as suggested and finished everything off with three little buttons from stash. Do the buttons look familiar? They are the same ones I used on this “Sunday Best Dress” project from March 1963 / March 2021. And yes, it is even for the same lucky baby! Maybe, with the parents’ permission, we can even re-create the pattern photo. Until then, here it is without the baby — I actually got a project done on time for once!

I am very happy with the finished coat and I hope the baby and parents are as well.

June 1963: Overview

Cover photo from Stitchcraft magazine, June 1963

“Light & Airy” is the theme of the June 1963 issue, with short-sleeved 4-ply knits as well as bulky items made in fluffy, lighter wool/synthetic blends. June is also the beginning of the holiday season, “where the emphasis to-day is so much on the active side and casual look — sailing, rambling and of course, so much travelling” (Patience Horne, “Editress”). Accordingly, many of the projects are easy, quick and/or small, to be finished before the travelling starts or suitable for working from your deck-chair.

In her introduction to this issue, Editress Horne also has a “special word for older readers”:

Remember that top models all come in the young age groups, but many of our designs, though often photographed on young models, are very suitable for older women, and often, a sweater with a long line, can be shortened without difficulty, for the more mature figure.

Graphic of a dandelion with the words "Light & Airy"

The 1940s and 1950s issues of Stitchcraft did have older models from time to time, usually modelling the designs intended for those “mature figures”. The 1960s issues often have plus-size designs and models, but they are indeed all on the younger side. I assume this had to do with the target demographic slowly moving from young working women and older matrons after the war, to young(ish) mothers of future Baby Boomers in the later 1950s and 1960s.

Anyway, on to the designs! The happy holidaying couple can make matching cardigan jackets in lightweight-but-bulky “Ariel” yarn when they play tennis or go “strolling and sight-seeing.” Diamond and zig-zag patterns make a showing in stranded colourwork patterns (the cover blouse), textured stitch patterns (the panelled 4-ply jumper and short-sleeved cardigan blouse) or Swiss darning (the colourblock “playtime sweater” worn by our young drummer.) The same Swiss darning (a.k.a. duplicate stitch) embroidery is used for tiny accents on a casual, collared cardigan.

The youngest of the family get a cute “matinee coat” and/or jacket decorated with regular embroidery, or a sun-suit with matching short-sleeved cover-up. Embroidery is definitely a trend! Collars and neckline finishings can be subtle, non-existent or big and bold, as seen on the woman’s cardigan and this men’s casual, tweedy shawl-collar number.

The homeware projects are all fairly simple and versatile, one design being suitable for different types of project, but some are too large to want to take along on holiday. There’s a tablecloth and/or chairback with cutwork ivy design, a rose motif apron and/or cushion, and a Victorian-inspired cushion and/or stool seat in tapestry and/or cross-stitch. Pick your combination!

The outdoor cushions with sea motifs are a good summer-themed project, or you can preserve your holiday memories in a needlepoint picture of Lynmouth. There’s also a cross-stitch rug for a larger, at-home project.

With so many interesting ideas to choose from, I’m sure nobody’s holiday will be too relaxing, ha ha. I am undecided about what project to make. I am so far behind and have so many unfinished projects! At the same time, there are too many projects from this issue that I would like to make. I could genuinely use a new cardigan and the embroidered one with the big collar is just my style… but where will I find the time to make another full-size adult garment? The same goes for the short-sleeved cardigan blouse and the panelled diamond-stitch jumper. The baby coat or cardigan would be practical for using up stash and might actually be done quickly enough, so that might be the best choice. Stay tuned!

May 1963: Viennese

Photo from Stitchcraft magazine, May 1963

My May project was this jumper “from a Viennese design” for a young relative whose birthday was in May. Spoiler: unfortunately, the jumper was not ready in time for the birthday. May went by so quickly and I feel like I hardly made progress on any of my multiple unfinished projects. Let’s hope the kid doesn’t have a growth spurt before I finally get this done.

The jumper is written in a narrow reverse-rib pattern and the interesting stitch design on the yoke is embroidered on later. The recipient of this project was not opposed to the embroidery but very adamant about wanting the garment to have a “smooth texture”, i.e. stocking stitch. I aim to please, so stocking stitch it was, except for the yoke.

Cone of green cotton yarn

Said relative lives in a warm climate and is somewhat sensitive to wool at the moment, so I decided to make it in fine cotton. The tension according to pattern is 14 1/2 stitches in 2 inches, which is as much as I can ever accomplish even with very fine yarn and tiny needles, so finding cotton that works for me at that gauge is difficult — most cotton yarns are mercerised DK weight for making dishcloths, accessories, amigurumi, etc. Of course, there is always fine crochet cotton, but that is usually also mercerised (I don’t like the shininess of mercerised cotton.) Mayflower DK makes a lovely fine-gauge cotton that is hard to find in stores and can’t be ordered from their (Danish-language only) website. Yarn stores were still closed in my area in any case when I started this project and I didn’t have anything appropriate in stash. Luckily, the wonderful Hamburger Wollfabrik spinning mill company (as in, the German city of Hamburg, not the food! I realise that name sounds funny when you read it in English…), which was closed for a long time after a burst pipe caused severe water damage a while ago, is back up and running online with a brand new website and a beautiful selection of yarns of different fibres and weights. I chose the super-combed cotton in a 4-ply weight and a spearmint green colour.

Work in progress -- knitted children's jumper

I was happy with the weight and colour of the yarn but unpleasantly surprised to see that it was completely un-plied! Nowhere on the website does it say what kind of twist they use, nor is there an option to select what you want, but the yarn in the sample colour photos definitely looks plied and my yarn was utterly not. It is really, really hard to work with un-plied cotton, as it just splits everywhere. I guess I should call them next time I order from them and ask about that.

It is also very lightweight, which is lovely. I used that to my advantage by making the finished garment short-sleeved, making it a fancy knitted T-shirt and not a jumper. but the finished garment will be more like a T-shirt than a jumper. I tried a couple of combinations for the yoke and decided to make it in the pattern stitch with the large contrasting cross-stitch “pyramid” design in bright orange.

It blocked out kind of uneven, as I didn’t have a clothes dryer. Strange to have a knitted item that should not be dried flat! But I think this cotton needs the evening-out and fluffing-up effect of a dryer.

The combination of boring stocking stitch and un-plied yarn made progress very slow, but I got it finished by the middle of June, at least. Let’s hope the kid likes it!

May 1963: Overview

Cover image from Stitchcraft magazine, May 1963

“Fashion At Ease” is the motto of the May 1963 Stitchcraft issue, in keeping with both the beginning summer holiday season and the fashion for casual, loose-fitting, bulky-knit garments. Our cover model is getting the picnic chairs ready in a cardigan made of “Ariel” yarn — a synthetic mix that is bulky but somewhat lighter-weight. (It’s always described as “light-as-a-feather”, “feather-weight” and so on, but the cardigan uses 9 or 10 2-ounce balls, which comes out to 18/20 ounces or about 510/560 grams in the basket rib and slip stitch patterns. That may be a bit lighter than the same type of garment made in bulky-weight 100% wool, but “feather-light” it is not.)

Other than that, the women’s garments are very similar: hip-length, made in plain, smooth stocking-stitch with V-necks and somewhat smaller pointy collars. The pullover of the green suit on the inside cover photo looks so similar to the raglan-sleeved “overpull” a few pages later that I had to check twice to make sure they were two separate designs and not a continuation of one pattern on a different page with another picture. The 4-ply collared pullover is also very plain (it’s even listed in the contents as “Plain 4-ply sweater”) and has gentle raglan sleeves and a similar small collar. There will be no rocking of the boats on this holiday, fashion-wise!

There’s a little more design interest in the “Italian” boatneck pullover with a stranded colour stripe across the hips as well as the wonderful “Tyrolean” cardigan and “Viennese” pullover for children. The use of different countries’ names in the descriptions seems more a way to highlight the international “continental” travel-holiday theme than any reference to traditional or regional design elements. I certainly don’t associate the stranded knitting pattern with Italy, as it’s much closer to traditional Fair Isle/Scandinavian/Baltic/northern stranded patterns. The children’s garments claim to be a “design from the Tyrol” and “From a Viennese design”, but you can make of that what you will. They are definitely cute and probably fun to wear.

Rounding out the knitting designs are a “crunchy” men’s pullover in Bracken Tweed, one of the early multicolour/tweed-flecked wools that became popular with hand-knitters in the early- and mid-1960s as well as an interesting hybrid cardigan featuring “waistcoat styling” — the front and back are knitted in plain stocking-stitch and the sleeves in a slip-and-drop textured stitch pattern in a lighter shade of the same DK wool. I’m not sure the look is successful, but it is an interesting idea.

There are plenty of ideas for housewares, starting with a coordinated latch-hook rug and cross-stitched floor mat for a child’s room. The puppy and kitten are quite cute and (not coincidentally) look a lot like the characters in some of the children’s comics printed in the back pages of the magazine. They are intended to be easy enough to make that “your young daughter” (only the daughter, of course) could help make it and thus expand or improve her handwork techniques. For any children who don’t have to help with housework (guess that would mean the boys eh), our happy housewife can make a felt bag for dirty linen shaped like a postbox, complete with a helpful embroidered sign with collection times (9:30 am Monday to Friday, no collection on Saturday or Sunday). There’s also a purely decorative Punch and Judy wall hanging and a nightdress case shaped like a tortoise. (I will never understand the point of a nightdress case, but I love the tortoise design.)

Going with the international/holiday theme, there are embroidery patterns for a chairback and tablecloth inspired by traditional Scandinavian designs, a flowery cross-stitch cushion and table mats and a very interesting tapestry pattern for a stool top. There’s also a knitted doily and — unusual for Stitchcraft — a design for a patchwork cushion with some very well-written basic instructions for doing patchwork with the paper piecing method. For the unacquainted: you cut out pieces of paper from a cardboard template in the desired shape, stitch the pieces of fabric around these paper pieces, then stitch the fabric pieces together at the side to make the larger patches. The paper pieces are then removed and re-used. The advantage of this method is that you don’t have to cut the fabric to perfectly accurate shapes or pay too much attention to the seam allowance.

That wraps it up for May 1963! The ads are the usual and in the alternative-nursery-rhyme children’s comic, Miss Muffet has shrunk to insect size and made friends with the very nice spider, who helps her get out of a flower and gives her a ride on a floating leaf. That sounds like fun.

My project for this month will be the “Viennese” child’s pullover, made for a young relative. Said child was adamant about wanting a “smooth texture” on the pullover and not the reverse-stocking-stitch-rib in the pattern. I am also making it for summer wear in a very lightweight cotton, so the finished result may or may not look anything like the original design, but we’ll see. Also: many WIPs to finish. Happy Spring!

April 1963: Blackwork Butterflies

Embroidered cushion, magazine photo from Stitchcraft, April 1963

UPDATE December 18, 2021 – Finished!

“For the embroideress who likes to tackle something different” came this amazing design from Stitchcraft‘s April 1963 issue. I am daunted by blackwork embroidery, having tried it only once until now with this cushion from the September 1960 issue. It’s fundamentally a form of counted embroidery, like cross-stitch, except that the stitch patterns aren’t crosses. The fillings are worked first using different geometrical counted patterns and the outlines and details are then added in (non-counted) crewel stitches like stem stitch, satin stitch, buttonhole, etc.

My biggest problem with all forms of counted embroidery is finding the proper ground fabric. The standard “Aida” fabric often used for cross-stitch is way too large, but furnishing linen, like the kind I mistakenly used for the fish cushion, is too tightly woven, making it impossible to count the holes properly and get the filling stitches to line up properly and look right. With the fish cushion I ended up just freehanding it, which is fine if you don’t look too closely but is obviously not the right procedure. I resolved to find the perfect-size linen this time!

… during a never-ending pandemic, where even if there were a shop nearby that sold all different sorts of embroidery fabrics, it would not be possible to go in and look at them to see how tightly woven they really are, as retail stores were closed in my area at the time. Of course, online shops give you information about the thread count and weight! Well… some give information about the weight, and some the number of threads per centimetre, and some just show a photo, which is utterly useless because who knows from how close it was taken?

The pattern is written for Glenshee Embroidery Fabric quality 212, a type of fabric that apparently does exist again after being unavailable for decades, but which seems to be available from exactly one distributor in two colours (beige and grey). At least I was able to find out what kind of thread count it had: 29 threads per inch, which converts to 11.6 threads per centimetre. I would be happy with anything between 11 and 12 and I wanted the fabric to be blue.

The first linen I bought was called something like “100% Linen Medium Blue” and I should have noticed right away that that meant it was regular furnishing linen, not specifically embroidery fabric — embroidery linens have special names according to their type and thread count. I loved the colour, though, and was determined to try. Of course I didn’t have a transfer, so I painstakingly calculated out the size of the circle for the main butterflies and from there, the size of each butterfly. I made a paper stencil for the butterflies and drew around a felt record-player cover (coincidentally the perfect size!) with a pencil to get the circle right. On starting the first butterfly, it was clear that the fabric was too tightly woven. It was pretty much the same type as the fish cushion. I was determined to make this project the right way, so after all the work I had put in marking the fabric and starting the pattern, back to the Internet I went and bought a few different kinds of embroidery fabric with a thread count between 11 and 12 threads per centimetre.

It is amazing how different fabrics can be that have the same or similar thread count!

Here is a photo below. For comparison, the fabric on the far left is the normal “Aida” used for cross-stitch at 6.4 threads to the inch. The light grey-blue is “Permin”, which has 11 threads/cm and is very open, almost like netting. The beige-ish fabric next to it is “Belfast” with 12.6 threads/cm and perfect for this project, but wasn’t available in blue. Next to it is “Murano”, which also has 12.6 threads/cm and is a cotton/viscose mix, not 100% linen like the others and the blue they had was a bit too dark. On the far right is the furnishing linen I had originally bought, and the only one in the colour I wanted.

I wasn’t 100% happy with any of the the four options I had now bought, but I had spent a lot of time and money already and just wanted to get the project started in a way that I would be able to finish it. So I decided to use the Permin, which was not the perfect colour (a bit light, but I could try to dye it?) and very net-like (but at least it was easy to do the counted work).

The slight difference in thread count and the net-like aspect of the fabric made me decide to work with 3 strands of thread instead of 2 as in the pattern. Other than that, I followed the pattern as best I could. My buttonhole stitch outline is more like blanket stitch and not as thick as in the pattern, but that’s OK. After almost finishing the second butterfly, I decided to go against the instructions and work the outlines of the butterflies first, then fill them in with the counted work. The other way around probably works well if you used an iron-on transfer with easy-to-follow lines, but my pencil tracings are less accurate.

The pink is embroidery transfer pen and will wash out.

It was slow going, but there is something meditative about embroidering precise geometrical shapes.

After embroidering two or three of the butterflies, I got my hands on some fabric dye and experimented with scraps of the cut fabric. “Deep Sea Green” (top) is actually blue, which was desired, but too dark and not vibrant enough. “South Sea Turquoise” (bottom) was the ideal colour, but I started liking the pale fabric more the more butterflies were embroidered. I decided to stick with the fabric as it was until the embroidery was complete, leaving off the white satin stitch body bits until after I dyed the fabric (or not).

Two strips of dyed fabric in different shades of blue

May 2021 passed very quickly and I hardly made progress on my May project, let alone this one. Here is a photo of my progress at the end of May:

Unfinished embroidery project, blackwork butterflies on pale blue fabric

After leaving it for a while to work on other projects, I picked it up again and tried to work a little bit each day. Things got complicated in the autumn, as the days got shorter and darker – I realised I could only work in bright, natural daylight, otherwise I couldn’t see the threads well enough to count them, even with a good lamp. But I kept going and eventually, there it was!

Making it up into a cushion was easy. I made the cushion itself from an old white pillowcase that had been retired to the upcycling drawer, made the back from more of the net and added a zipper. I had left off the extra embroidered borders, since the design turned out more square than rectangular.

(The actual colour is somewhat less blue than the photo above, but more blue than the one below. I can’t get the colour correction to work properly on this device. )

The only problem was the transfer marker, which didn’t wash or iron out well. A tip in one of my old Stitchcrafts suggested using “solvent” if nothing else worked, Having no idea exactly what kind of solvent they meant, I tried alcohol, which didn’t work, and kitchen de-greaser, which worked somewhat. Any little bit left in will hopefully wash out in time.

Wow, it’s finished! I am really impressed with myself for getting this done, but I think it will be my last blackwork project for the time being.

April 1963: Overview

Cover photo, Stitchcraft magazine, April 1963

First Fashions for Holidays! It’s almost always some sort of holiday season in these vintage knitting magazines — in this case, Easter and preparations for the summer. As the British climate makes it possible to wear thick, warm wool sweaters pretty much any month of the year, “holiday / not holiday” is less a matter of warmth or season and more about casual, easy-care garments to wear while “strolling” and sight-seeing, or projects that are small and simple enough that you can work on them while lounging in your deck chair. Or, as the facing page title puts it, “Sweaters off-duty.”

Thick, collared pullovers and cardigan jackets that can be worn as outerwear make up the bulk (-y) of the garments in the first category, many of them made in Patons Big Ben wool at 3 1/2 stitches to the inch. The tweedy, dark green jacket on the inner front cover is a good example of this and features an intriguing wavy slip-stitch pattern. The “Italian” tunic on the inner back cover has a knitted-in border pattern made of beads. DK-weight wool is used for the women’s round-yoke sweater on the front cover. Hip-length is the fashion for everyone, wide collars continue to be in style and decorative borders near the hem are the new spring trend.

There are fashions in finer-weight wool as well, “for elegant summer wear”. The red men’s pullover on the inside cover and the women’s Nylox pullover both have interesting stitch patterns, though I feel like the placement of the inserts on the women’s pullover could go horribly wrong a little too easily. If your man finds cables too exciting, you can knit him a plain V-neck pullover in bouclet wool and match it to your own fluffy mohair-mix jacket, made in Patons’ best-ever-named wool, “Fuzzy-Wuzzy.” Colours are strong and bright, including some very springlike salmon and turquoise.

Fashions for the younger members of the family cover all age groups: a dolman cross-front cardigan for the baby, a play-set for the toddler, a “miniature Paris blazer” for small and medium-sized children (she’s painting a picture on a easel, so you know it’s Parisian!) and a quick-to-make “chunky” pullover for “sub-teens” which is easy enough for a bigger girl to make for herself. (I don’t think the young model in the photo actually knows how to knit, though.)

With all that pre-holiday prep knitting, the homewares in this issue are generally unspectacular. There are chair sets in counted cross-stitch, a crocheted cushion and rug for the older daughter to make for her room, and a tapestry tea-cosy. The two more interesting projects are these corded crochet mats and a wonderful cushion with a design of butterflies, made in blackwork embroidery. Unfortunately I’m not good enough at crocheting to really understand how the “corded” look on the mats is achieved, besides the fact that there are a lot of picots and crocheting many stitches into a ring. Oh, and there are embroidered table mats, too, featuring line drawings of famous parks. I like the white-on-black effect — something different.

That’s it for this issue! The ads are pretty normal and in the comic, Miss Muffet continues her adventures, getting magically shrunk down to the size of an insect in order to go flying with a nice beetle-lady. I’m afraid the dragonfly might have dropped her into the lake, though! Oh no! How will it end?

My project for this month will be the embroidered butterfly cushion. Happy Spring!

March 1963: Sunday Best Dress

baby dress and coat, image from Stitchcraft magazine, March 1963

My March project featured sewing, for a change. I can sew, both by hand and with the machine, and I have sewn quite a few things in my time (even worked in the costume department of various community theatres as a teenager/young adult), but I do not enjoy sewing, nor am I particularly good at it, to be honest. (My costume shop work involved mostly either “pulling” outfits from storage, or doing fittings and alterations, or sewing things that someone else, i.e. the head designer had cut out. For that reason, I never learned to cut things to fit properly and am surprisingly bad at working from bought patterns.) Years of knitting have also made me very inexact about perfect measurements and straight lines, which is obviously sub-optimal for sewing. But I gave it another try to make this embroidered “Sunday best dress” for a baby from the March 1963 issue.

For once, you didn’t have to send away for the sewing pattern; since all the pieces were basically rectangles, they just printed a little scaled-down plan for cutting the material on a graph, with each square being equivalent to 2 inches. It was designed for silk or crepe fabric. I had bought a large remnant of beautiful light-grey viscose (rayon) some time ago, of which I used a small amount for the lining of February 1963’s needlepoint bag and had plenty left over. Rayon fabric has been around for more than a hundred years and was (and still is) used as “artificial silk” throughout the 20th century, so my fabric was quite period-accurate even though modern. I didn’t have silk floss to do the embroidery and just took the opportunity to use up some small scraps of normal cotton floss in pastel colours.

The dress was supposed have three embroidered butterflies on the front and close in the back with a couple of buttons. I didn’t have all that much embroidery thread and I did have quite a lot of lovely vintage buttons in a perfect pearly-green colour (thank you, kind seller on Ebay!), so I changed it around to fasten in the front, using the two-butterfly design from the coat (which I didn’t make).

The butterfly design was easy enough to copy without a transfer and features laid stitches on the wings — something new for me. My embroidery skills are still far from professional, but improving. The sewing work was interesting because I am not always in the same place as my sewing machine due to pandemic chaos — but also didn’t want to wait until I was — so I sewed everything except the buttonholes and waist strengthening zigzag at the end by hand. Including the gathers, buttonhole band, frilled sleevelets etc. Now I know why Marilla from the Anne of Green Gables books had to stop sewing in her later years to preserve her eyesight! Everything was tiny and took forever and my fingers, which are actually quite long and thin and nimble, felt like elephant feet.

Photo of sewing work-in-progress with various sewing tools

I did the buttonholes on the machine when I could, because I was definitely not going to try to sew buttonhole stitch by hand on thirteen tiny buttonholes. My machine-sewed buttonholes look messy enough that they could pass for hand work, ha ha. I am surprised that it turned out even vaguely even (yes I know, the hem in the front is a mess.) But in spite of its obvious imperfections, I’m quite happy with the result and proud of myself for making it work. I know a one-year-old baby who would fit in it perfectly and the parents will be very happy to have it as an Easter dress for her, so in my mind, it’s a success.

Finished sewing project: embroidered dress for a baby

Meanwhile, the “naughty pile” of unfinished projects is slowly diminishing and I’m looking forward to getting back to knitting.